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August 30, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

by David Klemt

Like this, but at least four times bigger. And made with more than just one spirit.

With National Rum Punch Day coming up on September 20, I think it’s time we shine the Drink Donnybrook light on another classic, large-format drink.

I argue, and I’m likely not the only one, that the legendary Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch. That is, of course, if the recipe calls for rum.

Like Rum Punch, a Scorpion Bowl is a large-format cocktail. Both are meant for sharing, and both aren’t exactly known for being “weak” drinks.

Speaking of weak, both can also follow the classic Barbadian rhyme we all know: “One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak.”

So, why focus on the Scorpion Bowl specifically on National Rum Punch Day? In part, because it may help you stand out from the crowd. I also argue the name is a bit more attention-grabbing. Additionally, a Scorpion Bowl tells potential guests to gather their friends for a great time.

A Bit of History: Rum Punch

Punch is one of the oldest types of cocktails that we know about. As with myriad classics, it origin proudly wears a shroud of mystery.

However, we can trace written references to punch back to the 17th century. So, we know that punch, as far as a mixed alcohol drink, is at least a few centuries old.

For the most part, British sailors are credited with creating Rum Punch. That means we have to address an unfortunate reality: Rum Punch is, as far as we know, a result of British colonization. As spirits and cocktail historian David Wondrich puts it when talking about punch, “It’s inseparable from the colonial experience.”

Wondrich also addresses the (likely) mythologized belief that “punch” comes from the Indostan word “paunch,” which means “five.” History suggests that East India Company sailors typically made punch with five ingredients: a spirit, sugar, spice, citrus, and water. The sugar trade, pursued by the East India Company, eventually led to rum being the spirit of choice for punch.

In his 2010 book Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl, Wondrich points out that there are recipes with less than five ingredients. And, of course, there are recipes that call for the use of more than five ingredients to make punch. Therefore, we can call the origin of this centuries-old cocktail’s naming convention into question.

A Bit of History: Scorpion Bowl

Similar to Rum Punch, there’s a bit of uncomfortable history when it comes to the Scorpion Bowl.

This large-format drink is a classic tiki cocktail. Over the past few years, there has been pushback for bar owners using tiki iconography, and even the word itself. “Nautical” or “tropical” are the preferences for people who feel that tiki is an offensive appropriation of Pacific Island culture in general, and Maori culture specifically.

Do with that information as you will; it’s just a note on how some people view tiki bars, tiki drinks, and tiki culture. It’s important for bar owners and operators to be aware of terminology and themes that may keep some people away.

That said, the Scorpion—the precursor to the Scorpion Bowl—has an origin as muddled as the leaves, simple, and bourbon in a Mint Julep.

To this day, from what I can find, we don’t know the bartender or bar owner who should get credit for the Scorpion. The belief is that they worked behind the stick at a bar in Hawaii called the Hut. As the story goes, the 1930s recipe includes rum, brandy, orgeat, and citrus, and is a large-format drink.

The legendary Victor J. “Trader Vic” Bergeron stopped by the bar in the 1940s and afterward created his own version, the Scorpion Bowl. Oh, and the best part is that even Trader Vic couldn’t decide on a definitive recipe for this shareable cocktail; he changed his recipe constantly.

Rum Punch vs. Scorpion Bowl

Okay, let’s look at these two literal titans of the cocktail world.

Bothare members of the tiki family of drinks, or, if one prefers, the nautical or tropical family. The usual serve for both is a large-format vessel, though individual servings are possible. Rum plays an important role in both, as do citrus and sugar.

In terms of differences, Rum Punch “traditionally” calls for the use of two rums (a light and a dark). When it comes to a Scorpion Bowl, the recipe calls for a rum and a brandy, and sometimes bartenders throw in gin and wine. In fact, I’d say that in the modern cocktail era, a Scorpion Bowl is less about a traditional recipe and more about a tropical-style drink served in a bowl.

What that tells me is this: the Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch, if it has rum in it.

So, be different this upcoming National Rum Punch Day and mark the holiday with Scorpion Bowls.

Image: Odeani Baker on Pexels

July 31, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

by David Klemt

If I were to say that the Whiskey Sour is a cocktail with an uncertain and disputable origin, would you find that statement surprising?

Regular readers of KRG Hospitality articles probably won’t think that’s shocking. After all, it’s well known at this point that I enjoy diving into cocktails with “hazy” histories.

For example, there’s the Martini, the Mint Julep, and the Margarita. I guess if you want to ensure it causes endless debate, you should make certain your cocktail’s name begins with the letter “M.”

Dial “M” for “moot,” as it were.

One thing we can state with certainty is that the Whiskey Sour is a true classic cocktail. We can also state with conviction that it will always boast decades of popularity amongst drinkers, particularly in America.

This particular sour cocktail may not be among the top ten or 20 most-popular drinks, but it was at one point. One can make the argument that the Whiskey Sour was among the most popular for a century.

So popular, in fact, that we dedicate an entire day to it. We celebrate the Whiskey Sour on National Whiskey Sour Day, August 25. This year, we honor this classic on a Friday.

“M” is for “Mystery”

A ubiquitous tipple for a century? Looking into what we know of the Whiskey Sour’s history, yes.

That may seem like a bold claim. However, it’s possible its time in the spotlight boasts more than 100 years.

This comes down to the Whiskey Sour’s creation and when it became so popular. Interestingly, it appears historians can’t agree on when it was first mentioned.

For example, some say the recipe for the Whiskey Sour first showed up in print in Jerry Thomas’ The Bar-Tenders Guide. This legendary tome was first published in 1862. Then there are those who say the cocktail first appeared in 1870 in the Waukesha Plaindealer, a Wisconsin newspaper.

Of course, there’s a technicality. In The Bar-Tenders Guide, the 1862 print specifically mentions the Brandy Sour, the Gin Sour, and a rum sour called the Santa Cruz.

Either way, we can assume with confidence that the cocktail was known to at least a handful of bartenders and bar guests before the recipe was published in 1862. Then we can add this quote from David Wondrich about just how important the Whiskey Sour has been to American bargoers:

“From roughly the 1860s to the 1960s, the Sour, and particularly its whiskey incarnation, was one of the cardinal points of American drinking, and one of the few drinks that could come near to slugging it out with the vast tribe of cocktails in terms of day-in, day-out popularity.”

If we trust Wondrich’s understanding of cocktail, spirits, and bar history—and I think it’s safe to say we absolutely can—there’s at least a century’s worth of human history where at least Americans couldn’t seem to enjoy enough Whiskey Sours.

Prepare Your LTOs

As a member of the Sour Family of cocktails, the Whiskey Sour makes it easy to build an LTO menu for National Whiskey Sour Day.

First, of course, there’s the standard Whiskey Sour recipe: two ounces whiskey, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, and a small egg white (optional).

Then there’s one of my favorite cocktails, the Penicillin: two ounces blended Scotch, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce honey-ginger syrup, and 1/4-ounce Laphroaig 10 or other Islay Scotch (fl0at).

Finally, to add a third LTO because people like things in threes, there’s the New York or Continental or Southern Whiskey Sour: two ounces rye or bourbon, one ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, one small egg white (optional), and 1/2-ounce red wine (float).

Of course, there are other riffs on the Whiskey Sour (the Gold Rush, for example) you can include on your LTO menu.

There you have it: another cocktail whose creator will likely never get full credit for their influential invention. Cheers to this mystery person!

Image: Ambitious Studio* – Rick Barrett on Unsplash

August 3, 2022by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

8 Books to Read this Month: TOTC Edition

8 Books to Read this Month: Tales of the Cocktail Edition

by David Klemt

This month’s engaging and informative book selections consist of the eight finalists from two of the 2022 Spirited Awards writing categories.

For your convenience, the award winner kicks off each category below. To review July’s book recommendations, click here.

Let’s jump in!

Best New Cocktail or Bartending Book

WINNER: The Japanese Art of the Cocktail

This is the first cocktail book written by Masahiro Urushido, the award-winning bartender from NYC’s Katana Kitten. After just one year with Urushido at the helm, Katana Kitten took home a 2019 Spirited Award. The Japanese Art of the Cocktail features 80 recipes and serves as a deep dive into a unique approach to cocktails and technique.

Death & Co: Welcome Home

The third book from Alex Day, Nick Fauchald, and David Kaplan, the team behind Death & Co., features more than 400 recipes. Now, while this book targets home bartenders, it’s also beneficial to bar professionals as it delves into the Death & Co. cocktail development program. Is that worth a $35 investment? Absolutely. Pick up Death & Co. Welcome Home today.

The Cocktail Seminars

As the story goes, author Brian D. Hoefling taught his fellow Yale students about cocktails and build techniques during his senior year. The Cocktail Seminars is a collection of five of Hoefling’s education seminars and spans 30 cocktail recipes. Along with technique, readers will learn about the history of cocktails, which they and their bar teams can leverage to engage with guests.

The Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes

The Way of the Cocktail comes from Julia Momosé, one of the minds behind Chicago cocktail destination Kumiko. From classics to new riffs, the recipes in this book are based on 24 micro-seasons.

Best New Book on Drinks Culture, History, or Spirits

WINNER: The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails

David Wondrich and Noah Rothbaum team up for likely the deepest dive into the role alcohol plays in human history. The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails is everything you ever wanted to know about fermentation, distillation, aging, cocktails, cocktail bars, and more. In addition to global techniques and processes, readers will be treated to illustrations, a guide to making drinks, and even a timeline of distillation and spirits.

Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey

Clay Risen is considered an authority on spirits. In particular, he’s lauded as an expert on whiskey. Bourbon lovers will appreciate the Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey box set for what it is: a definitive history of America’s native spirit. Along with profiles of Kentucky distillers, Risen has included interviews and photographs to tell the story of bourbon.

Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Edward Slingerland takes a look at not just the history of imbibing but what has motivated humans to catch a buzz with alcohol. Drunk goes far beyond anecdotes, myth and lore and uses science to address why alcohol is so important to so many people. More case study than well-spun yarn, Drunk is as entertaining as it is investigative.

Girly Drinks: A World History of Women and Alcohol

Written by Mallory O’Meara, Girly Drinks takes a hard look at the gendering of bars, brewing, distillation, and drinking culture. O’Meara also delves into the history and cultural importance of women bartenders like Ada Coleman, creator of the Hanky Panky.

“Filling a crucial gap in culinary history, O’Meara dismantles the long-standing patriarchal traditions at the heart of these very drinking cultures, in the hope that readers everywhere can look to each celebrated woman in this book—and proudly have what she’s having.”

Image: Mikołaj on Unsplash