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An AI-generated image of an anthropomorphic bee wearing a suit, drinking a cocktail at a cocktail bar

August 23, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Bee’s Knees

Drink Donnybrook: Bee’s Knees

by David Klemt

That is one dapper bee, my friends.

The subject of our latest Drink Donnybrook deep dive is the Bee’s Knees, a classic that has very likely already enjoyed its centennial birthday.

If that sounds a bit uncertain, welcome to your first Drink Donnybrook article. I tend to cover cocktails with origins that are, shall we say, less than definitive.

In the case of the Bee’s Knees, we simply don’t know without a doubt the drink’s creator. Nor do we know exactly which year the cocktail came into being.

One compelling piece of evidence that ties the Bee’s Knees to the 1920s is the name itself. The term “the bee’s knees” became part of the American lexicon in that decade. To this day, if someone calls something or someone “the bee’s knees,” they’re saying it’s excellent

Another piece of evidence is Prohibition in America. So-called (let’s face it, largely aptly named) “bathtub gin” became ubiquitous during this time. As the story goes, honey was an ingredient that could cover up the smell of cheap (and likely dangerous) alcohol, like bathtub gin.

Well, the Bee’s Knees is a gin cocktail with honey and lemon juice among the ingredients. Honey and lemon juice can certainly make a poor-quality potable more palatable.

Alright, so those are two solid clues that support the belief that the cocktail is from the 1920s. The drink could be a bit over 100 years old, turning 100 this year, or a few years away from reaching the hundred-year milestone.

Accepting the time period, who do we give credit for creating the Bee’s Knees?

A French Connection

There are two strong candidates for the title of “Creator of the Bee’s Knees.”

One is Frank Meier, who became the head bartender at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in 1921. Click here for a bit of information tying Meier to the Mimosa.

Meier was, undoubtedly, a prolific cocktail craftsman. One need simply sift through his 1936 recipe book, The Artistry of Mixing Drinks, to see the breadth of his work with spirits.

There’s an important detail on the pages of that book that lend support to the theory that Meier created the Bee’s Knees. If you clicked the link a few sentences above, you’ll know what I’m talking about.

There’s a symbol—a diamond with “FM” inside of it—next to certain drinks. As page 20 of the book explains, a drink that has this symbol beside it was created by Meier. The Bee’s Knees is marked with that symbol, while the Mimosa is not.

However, there’s another French connection that may have created this gin-based classic.

If you’re familiar with your Titanic history, the name “the unsinkable Molly Brown” may ring a bell. In 1912, Margaret Tobin Brown was one of the 712 people who survived the sinking of the Titanic.

It’s said that Brown, a wealthy widow and socialite, spent time traveling. Often times, these journeys and adventures found in her Paris. An article published in The Standard Union in 1929 addressed the topic of “women-only bars.” That same article claimed that Brown invented the Bee’s Knees while visiting these drinking establishments.

Personally, I find the story that Meier created the Bee’s Knees to be the most probably. But I’d love to learn that a Titanic survivor gifted us with a classic that has stood the test of the time.

Cheers!

Bee’s Knees

2 oz. London Dry gin
0.75 oz. Fresh-squeezed lemon juice
0.5 oz. Honey syrup
Lemon twist to garnish

This is an easy one, once you have your honey syrup sorted. On that topic, different honeys will imbue this cocktail with vastly different flavor profiles. So, you’ll want to experiment with honeys to come up with your signature. I recommend starting with something local. Of course, the same can be said for gin, so this one needs plenty of testing.

In a shaker, add the first three ingredients and ice. Shake well, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, and garnish.

There are variants, which will likely come as no surprise. There’s a version from 1948 that calls for a splash of orange juice. Swap out the London Dry gin for light rum to make a Honeysuckle. Substitute Jamaican rum and you’ve got a Honey Bee. And if the drink is made with Old Tom gin rather than London Dry, it’s a Cat’s Whiskers.

Image: Microsoft Designer

An AI-generated, street-style image of a red and a blue cocktail crossed at the glass stems, against a blue, white, and red graffiti background

July 12, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champs

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champagne

by David Klemt

That’s some interesting stemware…and the cocktail on the right is an interesting color.

The French have contributed more than Champagne, Cognac, Armagnac, Grand Marnier, and Cointreau to global cocktail culture.

There at least a dozen cocktails that originate from France. And, of course, there are even more from one of the most French-influenced cities in the US, New Orleans.

Since Bastille Day is almost upon us I want to share ten cocktail recipes with origin stories we can trace back to France. Now, if celebrating Bastille Day isn’t your thing, you can celebrate National Grand Marnier Day instead.

Basically, if a cocktail below calls for orange liqueur, you and your bar team can use Grand Marnier. But…allow me to nerd out for a moment about orange liqueur and France.

Orange Liqueur vs. Triple Sec vs. Orange Curaçao

As we’re taught early on, all squares are rectangles (and rhombuses). However, not all rectangles (or rhombuses) are squares. Why am I bringing up geometric shapes in an article about cocktails?

Think of orange liqueur as a rectangle or rhombus. All orange curaçaos and triple secs can be considered orange liqueurs, but not all orange liqueurs are triple secs or orange curaçaos, if we want to be pedantic.

Generally speaking, triple sec is French orange liqueur. Cointreau, as an example, is a triple sec. It’s also an orange liqueur, and one can argue it’s an orange curaçao, although it isn’t made with Lahara orange. Grand Marnier is French but is not a triple sec. Why not? Because Grand Marnier is triple sec blended with Cognac. Pedantry strikes again!

Why does this matter? When choosing your orange liqueur, keep in mind that they don’t all taste the same. Their unique flavors will have an impact on a given cocktail. So, if you were to build a Sidecar with Grand Marnier rather than Cointreau, they’d taste noticeably different. This is, in part, due to the fact that the Sidecar is a Cognac recipe, and Grand Marnier is made with Cognac.

Thank you for indulging me there. Feel free to share that knowledge with your guests, but stop if their eyes start glazing over.

Consider featuring any of the cocktail recipes below this weekend. Sunday, July 14, is Bastille Day, or National Grand Marnier Day, if you prefer. Cheers!

French 75

This classic’s original form can be tracked to the 1910s and the famous New York Bar, located in Paris. Eventually, the venue would become Harry’s New York Bar, named for proprietor, bartender, and writer Harry MacElhone.

By the 1920s, the “final form” of the French 75 we all know and love would come into existence. However, people are still tweaking this classic’s build.

For the traditionalists out there, the French 75 is easy to make: one part gin, and a half-part each of lemon juice and simple syrup, topped with three parts sparkling wine. Don’t forget the lemon twist to garnish!

Boulevardier

As was the case with so many others during the modern Cocktail Revival—and the subsequent Negroni craze—the Boulevardier was my go-to cocktail for quite some time. Interestingly, this cocktail supposedly never “took” until the 2000s.

Like the French 75, the Boulevardier can be traced to Harry’s New York Bar and 1920s Paris. However, the credit for this one goes to a magazine publisher, according to Harry himself.

For this recipe, pretend you’re making a Negroni…but swap out the gin for bourbon or rye. Oh, and forget the 1:1:1 Negroni ratio; this isn’t an equal parts situation. Instead, combine one part Campari with one part sweet vermouth, but bump up the whiskey to one-and-one-quarter parts.

Old Pal

The Old Pal is thought to be a spin on the Boulevardier by that cocktail’s creator, Harry MacElhone, at his bar in Paris.

Whereas the Boulevardier is considered by someone a whiskey-based riff on the Negroni, that’s not an equal-parts build. This, however, is.

Stir equal parts rye whiskey, Campari, and dry vermouth in a mixing glass with ice. Then, strain it into a chilled coupe. Some modern recipes call for doubling the rye, so experimentation is in order.

Sidecar

Okay, let’s start a fight: the Sidecar was created at the Ritz Paris, in Paris, in the 1920s. Why should that cause a kerfuffle? Well, the drink could also be a Pat MacGarry creation, invented in London.

Making this even more contentious is that Harry (yes, of Harry’s New York Bar) went from crediting MacGarry to claiming credit himself. Oh, and sources in both Paris and London claim the same story to be true: a guest arrived at their bar on a motorcycle, and the bartender at the time came up with this drink for said guest.

But wait, il y a plus! Living legend Dale DeGroff has stated that he believes the name references a bonus shot. This is the amount of cocktail left over after shaking and straining the drink, and served on the side in a shot glass.

Regardless of the true story, add three-quarters of an ounce each orange liqueur and lemon juice, then double that amount of Cognac. Prep a coupe with a sugar rim, shake the mixture, strain it into the glass, and garnish with an orange twist.

Between the Sheets

Are you getting the impression that we should just credit with Harry MacElhone with the creation of every drink originating from Paris? I won’t blame you if you are, since he’s credited with Between the Sheets as well. Is he actually the creator? Maybe I’ll address that in a future Drink Donnybrook.

To build this cocktail, pretend you’re making a Sidecar. Then, pick up a bottle of rum. This is an equal parts cocktail, calling for three-quarters of a part of Cognac, rum, and orange liqueur, and a quarter-part of lemon juice.

White Lady

This MacElhone creation has an interesting history. As the story goes, he created the original version in London in the late 1910s. He served it in its precursor form, then overhauled the recipe in Paris. At his bar. In the 1920s. Déjà vu, anyone?

And what an overhaul the recipe underwent. The original White Lady was a blend of crème de menthe, triple sec, and lemon juice. However, MacElhone eschewed crème de menthe in Paris, replacing it with gin. Additionally, he added an egg white and a dry shake.

Mimosa

Surely, the simple two-ingredient Mimosa must have a clear origin, right? Well…maybe.

Some say the Mimosa was created at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in the mid-1920s. Others believe it was invented in the 1930s. Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if the drink was first crafted in the 1910s or earlier by someone who simply wanted to toss some sparkling wine into their orange juice.

Ritz bartender Frank Meier may be the drink’s creator. However, people who dispute this point to his 1936 book The Artistry of Mixing Drinks. Recipes with Meier’s initials inside of a diamond next to recipes marked this as his creations. No such symbol appears next to the Mimosa.

If you need this complex recipe, it’s two ounces of chilled orange juice, topped with sparkling wine. I prefer Crémant to Champagne, but do whatever works best. In fact, operators can upsell the bubbles for their signature Mimosas.

Death in the Afternoon

I’m hesitant to include this cocktail, for a couple of reasons. One, I’m not sure it was created in France. There’s reason to believe it was invented as an homage to France, but outside of the country.

Second, Ernest Hemingway is given the credit as its creator. However, Hemingway historians have been dubious of claims involving the author and his relationship to certain drinks and bars.

That said, Hemingway purportedly came up with this drink while spending time in France in the 1920s. Add one-and-a-half parts absinthe to a coupe, then add three times that amount of chilled Champagne until the mixture is “milky” in appearance. Next, I assume, comes a nap.

Yellow

How about a modern classic? Yellow is a signature cocktail at Cravan, owned by restaurateur, bartender, and historian Franck Audoux.

If you’re visiting Paris, the original Cravan location is in the 16th arrondissement of the capital city. However, a second location, the result of a partnership between Audoux and Moët Hennessy, is in the 6th arrondissement. If you’re curious, there are 20 arrondissements in Paris.

Audoux, again, a historian, created the Yellow as an homage to a cocktail said to have been popular in the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera: gin, Suze and Yellow Chartreuse. To make Audoux’s Yellow, add ice to a shaker, along with equal parts London Dry gin, Suze, Yellow Chartreuse, and lemon juice. Shake, then double strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.

L’Expérience 1

Hey, speaking of modern classics… Back in 2007, Experimental Group opened its first venue in Paris, Experimental Cocktail Club. Seventeen years later, the group has built an empire spanning eleven cities all over the world.

Moreover, Experimental Group operates not just bars but restaurants, clubs, and hotels. That said, while the group has grown, they haven’t forgotten their roots. L’Experience 1 appeared on the menu at their first-ever venue, and it remains their signature cocktail.

To make this modern drink, chill a Martini glass. Add three-quarters of a part each of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and elderflower liqueur, plus one-and-three-quarter parts of premium or super-premium vodka to a cocktail shaker. Before adding ice, add a basil leaf and one hand-crushed blade of lemongrass to the shaker as well. Shake, strain into the prepared glass, and garnish with a lemongrass leaf.

Santé!

AI image generator: Microsoft Designer

December 12, 2023by krghospitality krghospitality No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

by David Klemt

Is there vodka in there? Maybe.

As it turns out, the origins of one of the simplest cocktails on the planet—there are just two ingredients in a traditional Screwdriver—are a mystery.

Another interesting note about the Screwdriver: It’s likely a relatively new drink.

If the Screwdriver is an American invention, the earliest most believe it could have been created is the 1920s. That’s when Smirnoff sold the rights to North American distribution to a distiller in the US.

However, it’s possible the cocktail wasn’t invented until some time in the 1940s. Vodka didn’t really become popular among Americans until the ’40s. So, it’s conceivable that the Screwdriver is less than 100 years old.

Still, it’s difficult to believe that someone, somewhere didn’t think to add a splash of vodka to their orange juice in the 1800s. Or that someone didn’t think to “adjust” the taste of the vodka in their glass with a bit of OJ.

Either way, it’s pretty entertaining to know that we don’t have a definitive answer for who created the Screwdriver, where it was first made, and when. When we consider the fact that the recipe calls for just two simple ingredients, maybe it does make sense that we don’t know the who, where, and why. It’s so easy to make that it’s believable multiple people had the same idea around the same time, across the globe.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Drink Donnybrook without checking into some origin theories. So, let’s dive in!

World War II

One theory involves WWII and the US Marine Corps.

It’s quite simple, really. During WWII, stationed overseas, perhaps a few Marines jazzed up their orange juice with a touch of vodka.

Oh, but wait. The Screwdriver may not be attributable to the USMC. It’s possible, according to another theory, that the former US Army Air Forces came up with drink and name when stationed in Ankara, Turkey.

As the predecessor to the Air Force, the USAF may hold claim to the Screwdriver.

If it’s one thing we need, it’s more fuel for the inter-service rivalry between the USMC and USAF.

Journalists

Two publications mentioned the Screwdriver in the 1930s and 1940s.

According to some historians, Journalism Quarterly at least made reference to a drink called the “Smirnoff Screwdriver” in 1938.

If that’s true, the classic cocktail predates WWII by a year. And if that’s true, it’s possible that American marines, airmen, or soldiers spread it around the world.

In 1949, Time magazine mentioned the Screwdriver. According to the writer, the cocktail was the newest drink grabbing attention at the Park Hotel in New York. Apparently, American engineers, Balkan refugees, and Turkish spies loved the drink.

Interestingly, if Time‘s reporting is accurate, it’s possible the supposed Turkish spies frequenting the Park Hotel bar got the name of the drink from American airmen.

Since apparently no bartenders who worked at the Park Hotel appear to have taken credit for it back in the ’40s, it’s unlikely it was created there.

Roughnecks

Okay, so you’re an oil worker. It’s the 1950s and you’re working in the Persian Gulf.

You’re performing back-breaking, dangerous tasks in oil fields. Maybe you need a pick-me-up, and maybe that pick-me-up involves mixing orange juice and vodka together.

But…you don’t have a barspoon. You certainly don’t have a swizzle stick. And you don’t have a coffee stirrer handy.

What you do have is a screwdriver. That screwdriver will definitely stir a drink. It doesn’t take time for this vodka-orange juice concoction to get the name “Screwdriver” because of the stirring utensil.

Well, that’s one theory, anyway.

Two days from now, December 14, you can share all those stories with your guests. Why? Because that’s National Screwdriver Day, a time to celebrate one of the simplest cocktails ever made.

Of course, you and your team can make the Screwdriver your own. Top-shelf vodka, the finest and freshest hand-squeezed orange juice (maybe even blood orange juice), any number of garnishes or rims, a touch of sparkling wine or water… The simpler the drink, the easier it can be to riff on it.

Cheers!

Image: Ryutaro Tsukata on Pexels

Red Daiquiri with lime wheel garnish on bar

September 13, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Daiquiri

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Daiquiri

by David Klemt

Like some other simple cocktails, the Daiquiri makes the case for building drinks with but a few elements and with the proper technique.

The keys are the quality of the ingredients, technique, and hospitality. Made with just three items—rum, lime juice, and sugar syrup—the Daiquiri has etched itself onto Cocktail Mount Rushmore. That imaginary cocktail landmark also includes the Margarita, of course.

So simple is the Daiquiri that it’s used to gauge bartender proficiency, much like its peer the Margarita.

Many a well-known bartender—revered, infamous or otherwise—will throw down the Daiquiri gauntlet after encountering an upstart boasting about their latest 10-ingredient, split-base cocktail tomfoolery.

Sure, they can make you a drink that takes ten minutes to build, and you’ll likely remember the experience, for better or worse. But can they knock your socks off with a simple Daiquiri?

But where does the Daiquiri come from? Just like I’ve done with the Martini, Piña Colada, and Whiskey Sour, let’s dive into this classic’s history.

History Lesson

I’m sure you’ll be absolutely aghast to learn that the exact origins of the Daiquiri aren’t crystal clear. However, it’s widely accepted that the cocktail was invented in Cuba two years before the Spanish-American War kicked off in 1898.

The creator was Jennings Cox, a claim backed up by the discovery of a recipe card signed by Cox and dated 1896. It’s believed that the drink was named for the port town of Daiquiri.

Just over a decade later, the Daiquiri was introduced to the United States in 1909 by Rear Admiral Lucius W. Johnson. After trying one in Cuba and liking what he tasted, he brought the recipe back to the Army and Navy Club in Washington, DC. Members introduced others to the Daiquiri, and it eventually became one of the most popular cocktails in the world.

That is, unless you choose to believe the rumor that the drink found itself in New York in 1902.

Going down this path of Daiquiri lore, US Congressman William A. Chanler (D-NY) bought iron mines in Cuba. While he was in Cuba he was introduced to the Daiquiri. In turn, Chanler brought the Daiquiri to New York City, sharing it with several clubs of which he was a member, such as the New York Yacht Club and Knickerbocker Club.

Recipe Refinement

The Daiquiri’s story doesn’t end there, however. There are two important bartenders who deserve credit for refining the original recipe.

First up is Emilio “El Maragato” Gonzalez, who tended bar at the Hotel Plaza in Havana, Cuba. Whereas the Cox build was served in a tall glass over cracked ice, El Maragato is credited as the first to shake and strain the Daiquiri, serving it up it in a coupe. And while Cox used brown sugar in the original, Gonzalez used white sugar.

Then, we have Constantino “Constante” Ribalaigua Vert. Constante owned and worked behind the stick at a bar you may have heard of, El Floridita, also in Havana. If you can’t quite put your finger on why you know that bar’s name, it’s because Earnest Hemingway plays a role in its fame.

Ribalaigua invented the frozen Daiquiri, and subsequently the Papa Doble or Hemingway Daiquiri, which was Constante’s original build with less (or zero) sugar and double the rum.

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry says in his book Potions of the Caribbean that Hemingway once put down 15 Papa Dobles. In another book, To Have and Have Another: A Hemingway Cocktail Companion, author Phillip Greene says Hemingway managed seventeen.

Those who have visited Herbs & Rye, one of the best cocktail bars in America, know that the first cocktail under the Prohibition Era section of the menu is a Hemingway Daiquiri.

Below you’ll find a traditional Daiquiri recipe and the Hemingway Daiquiri build. Cheers!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
¾ ounce Demerara sugar syrup
Lime twist to garnish

Either fill a coupe with ice or pull a chilled coupe from your refrigerator. Set aside. Add all ingredients minus the garnish to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain into the prepared coupe, garnish, and serve.

Papa Doble aka Hemingway Daiquiri recipe

2 ounces White rum
¾ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
½ ounce Maraschino liqueur
Lime wheel to garnish

Follow the build instructions above; it’s that simple!

Image: Tai’s Captures on Unsplash

Spider Island Rum bottle and rum cocktail

August 30, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

by David Klemt

Like this, but at least four times bigger. And made with more than just one spirit.

With National Rum Punch Day coming up on September 20, I think it’s time we shine the Drink Donnybrook light on another classic, large-format drink.

I argue, and I’m likely not the only one, that the legendary Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch. That is, of course, if the recipe calls for rum.

Like Rum Punch, a Scorpion Bowl is a large-format cocktail. Both are meant for sharing, and both aren’t exactly known for being “weak” drinks.

Speaking of weak, both can also follow the classic Barbadian rhyme we all know: “One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak.”

So, why focus on the Scorpion Bowl specifically on National Rum Punch Day? In part, because it may help you stand out from the crowd. I also argue the name is a bit more attention-grabbing. Additionally, a Scorpion Bowl tells potential guests to gather their friends for a great time.

A Bit of History: Rum Punch

Punch is one of the oldest types of cocktails that we know about. As with myriad classics, it origin proudly wears a shroud of mystery.

However, we can trace written references to punch back to the 17th century. So, we know that punch, as far as a mixed alcohol drink, is at least a few centuries old.

For the most part, British sailors are credited with creating Rum Punch. That means we have to address an unfortunate reality: Rum Punch is, as far as we know, a result of British colonization. As spirits and cocktail historian David Wondrich puts it when talking about punch, “It’s inseparable from the colonial experience.”

Wondrich also addresses the (likely) mythologized belief that “punch” comes from the Indostan word “paunch,” which means “five.” History suggests that East India Company sailors typically made punch with five ingredients: a spirit, sugar, spice, citrus, and water. The sugar trade, pursued by the East India Company, eventually led to rum being the spirit of choice for punch.

In his 2010 book Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl, Wondrich points out that there are recipes with less than five ingredients. And, of course, there are recipes that call for the use of more than five ingredients to make punch. Therefore, we can call the origin of this centuries-old cocktail’s naming convention into question.

A Bit of History: Scorpion Bowl

Similar to Rum Punch, there’s a bit of uncomfortable history when it comes to the Scorpion Bowl.

This large-format drink is a classic tiki cocktail. Over the past few years, there has been pushback for bar owners using tiki iconography, and even the word itself. “Nautical” or “tropical” are the preferences for people who feel that tiki is an offensive appropriation of Pacific Island culture in general, and Maori culture specifically.

Do with that information as you will; it’s just a note on how some people view tiki bars, tiki drinks, and tiki culture. It’s important for bar owners and operators to be aware of terminology and themes that may keep some people away.

That said, the Scorpion—the precursor to the Scorpion Bowl—has an origin as muddled as the leaves, simple, and bourbon in a Mint Julep.

To this day, from what I can find, we don’t know the bartender or bar owner who should get credit for the Scorpion. The belief is that they worked behind the stick at a bar in Hawaii called the Hut. As the story goes, the 1930s recipe includes rum, brandy, orgeat, and citrus, and is a large-format drink.

The legendary Victor J. “Trader Vic” Bergeron stopped by the bar in the 1940s and afterward created his own version, the Scorpion Bowl. Oh, and the best part is that even Trader Vic couldn’t decide on a definitive recipe for this shareable cocktail; he changed his recipe constantly.

Rum Punch vs. Scorpion Bowl

Okay, let’s look at these two literal titans of the cocktail world.

Bothare members of the tiki family of drinks, or, if one prefers, the nautical or tropical family. The usual serve for both is a large-format vessel, though individual servings are possible. Rum plays an important role in both, as do citrus and sugar.

In terms of differences, Rum Punch “traditionally” calls for the use of two rums (a light and a dark). When it comes to a Scorpion Bowl, the recipe calls for a rum and a brandy, and sometimes bartenders throw in gin and wine. In fact, I’d say that in the modern cocktail era, a Scorpion Bowl is less about a traditional recipe and more about a tropical-style drink served in a bowl.

What that tells me is this: the Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch, if it has rum in it.

So, be different this upcoming National Rum Punch Day and mark the holiday with Scorpion Bowls.

Image: Odeani Baker on Pexels

A bartender serving a cocktail in a pineapple-shaped glass

August 7, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

by David Klemt

Temperatures are rising and there are still about six weeks of summer left, so let’s take a look at a refreshing warm-weather hero: the Piña Colada.

So far we’ve looked at the Martini and Whiskey Sour. Now, it’s another classic’s turn in the Drink Donnybrook spotlight.

One could claim that the Piña Colada is one of the original “lost cocktails.” Of course, that depends on which origin story turns out to be true.

If the Piña Colada dates back to the first quarter of the 19th century, then it’s a pirate cocktail once lost to the winds of time. Puerto Rican pirate Roberto Cofresí, also known as El Pirata Cofresí, supposedly served his crews a drink consisting of rum, coconut, and pineapple. Sounds like a Piña Colada to me.

The reason I said it could be considered an original lost cocktail is that Cofresí died in 1825. Disputed history says his drink recipe disappeared with his death.

However, the Piña Colada may have far less metal roots than being invented by a famous pirate. Puerto Rico’s official drink may have simply been created by a bartender.

One Drink, Three Bartenders

Ramón “Monchito” Marrero may have created the Piña Colada while at the helm of the Beachcomber Bar at the Caribe Hilton in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, in 1952. Or maybe it was 1954.

It’s almost like bartenders should be able to more easily protect their intellectual properties so we can identify their cocktails’ true origins.

Forgive the digression. You’ll be shocked—shocked, I say—to learn that another bartender may have created the Piña Colada. During the same year. At the same hotel.

That bartender is Ricardo García, and the claim is that he invented the drink during a coconut shortage.

Would it surprise you to learn that a third bartender working in Old San Juan also claimed credit for the Piña Colada? Ramón Portas Mignot said he came up with this tropical classic in 1963 at Barrachina. The restaurant and bar’s ownership apparently agreed, because they installed a plaque at the front door backing Mignot’s claim.

Hey, if it has a plaque, it must be true; they don’t just give those to anyone. Oh, and you can check out that plaque for yourself: Barrachina still exists and enjoys a 4.5 rating from over 4,100 Google reviews.

A Rough Patch

Unfortunately, once anointed “the world’s most famous drink,” the Piña Colada had a rough, well, several decades.

In the 1970s, the drink’s quality plunged and fell out of favor with cocktailians. Any technique for building the nautical libation went down the bar sink. It was easier and cheaper to just make Piña Coladas with premade mixes and cheap rum.

Add to that the trend toward serving bastardized versions in oversized glassware at mediocre hotel pools, tourist trap hotel bars, weird supper clubs nowhere near a beach, and on cruise ships and you can see why cocktail connoisseurs snubbed this classic.

The Cocktail Revolution of the 2000s helped restore the Piña Colada’s dignity and popularity. It may not find itself in as much demand as the Margarita or Daiquiri, but it’s no longer missing from serious cocktail programs.

So raise a Hurricane—or a cocktail glass or coupe—to the Piña Colada today. ¡Salud!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ½ ounces Cream of coconut
1 ½ ounces Pineapple juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
Pineapple leaf and pineapple wedge for garnish

For a more traditional preparation, fill a Hurricane glass with ice and set to the side. Add the liquid ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake for at least 30 seconds. Toss the ice from the Hurricane glass and replace with pebble ice. Strain cocktail into glass and garnish.

Now, you don’t need to serve a Piña Colada in a Hurricane. Plenty of bars and restaurants send them across the bar in coupes or other cocktails glasses, sans garnish. Speaking of garnishing this classic, some people expect whipped cream, a lime wedge or wheel, a cherry, or even all three. You’ll see bartenders serve them with sugar rims and umbrellas. Like me, you’ve probably also seen them served with an orange wheel.

Then there are the frozen Piña Coladas and fruit Piña Coladas, versions made with various styles of rum… People just can’t seem to resist putting their stamp on this classic.

Dealer’s choice, I suppose, or you can ask guests what preparation and garnish they prefer. Or, and this is the approach I recommend, nail down your bar’s signature Piña Colada, including garnish (or none).

Image: Kike Salazar N on Unsplash