Cocktail history | KRG Hospitality

A bartender serving a cocktail in a pineapple-shaped glass

August 7, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

by David Klemt

Temperatures are rising and there are still about six weeks of summer left, so let’s take a look at a refreshing warm-weather hero: the Piña Colada.

So far we’ve looked at the Martini and Whiskey Sour. Now, it’s another classic’s turn in the Drink Donnybrook spotlight.

One could claim that the Piña Colada is one of the original “lost cocktails.” Of course, that depends on which origin story turns out to be true.

If the Piña Colada dates back to the first quarter of the 19th century, then it’s a pirate cocktail once lost to the winds of time. Puerto Rican pirate Roberto Cofresí, also known as El Pirata Cofresí, supposedly served his crews a drink consisting of rum, coconut, and pineapple. Sounds like a Piña Colada to me.

The reason I said it could be considered an original lost cocktail is that Cofresí died in 1825. Disputed history says his drink recipe disappeared with his death.

However, the Piña Colada may have far less metal roots than being invented by a famous pirate. Puerto Rico’s official drink may have simply been created by a bartender.

One Drink, Three Bartenders

Ramón “Monchito” Marrero may have created the Piña Colada while at the helm of the Beachcomber Bar at the Caribe Hilton in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, in 1952. Or maybe it was 1954.

It’s almost like bartenders should be able to more easily protect their intellectual properties so we can identify their cocktails’ true origins.

Forgive the digression. You’ll be shocked—shocked, I say—to learn that another bartender may have created the Piña Colada. During the same year. At the same hotel.

That bartender is Ricardo García, and the claim is that he invented the drink during a coconut shortage.

Would it surprise you to learn that a third bartender working in Old San Juan also claimed credit for the Piña Colada? Ramón Portas Mignot said he came up with this tropical classic in 1963 at Barrachina. The restaurant and bar’s ownership apparently agreed, because they installed a plaque at the front door backing Mignot’s claim.

Hey, if it has a plaque, it must be true; they don’t just give those to anyone. Oh, and you can check out that plaque for yourself: Barrachina still exists and enjoys a 4.5 rating from over 4,100 Google reviews.

A Rough Patch

Unfortunately, once anointed “the world’s most famous drink,” the Piña Colada had a rough, well, several decades.

In the 1970s, the drink’s quality plunged and fell out of favor with cocktailians. Any technique for building the nautical libation went down the bar sink. It was easier and cheaper to just make Piña Coladas with premade mixes and cheap rum.

Add to that the trend toward serving bastardized versions in oversized glassware at mediocre hotel pools, tourist trap hotel bars, weird supper clubs nowhere near a beach, and on cruise ships and you can see why cocktail connoisseurs snubbed this classic.

The Cocktail Revolution of the 2000s helped restore the Piña Colada’s dignity and popularity. It may not find itself in as much demand as the Margarita or Daiquiri, but it’s no longer missing from serious cocktail programs.

So raise a Hurricane—or a cocktail glass or coupe—to the Piña Colada today. ¡Salud!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ½ ounces Cream of coconut
1 ½ ounces Pineapple juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
Pineapple leaf and pineapple wedge for garnish

For a more traditional preparation, fill a Hurricane glass with ice and set to the side. Add the liquid ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake for at least 30 seconds. Toss the ice from the Hurricane glass and replace with pebble ice. Strain cocktail into glass and garnish.

Now, you don’t need to serve a Piña Colada in a Hurricane. Plenty of bars and restaurants send them across the bar in coupes or other cocktails glasses, sans garnish. Speaking of garnishing this classic, some people expect whipped cream, a lime wedge or wheel, a cherry, or even all three. You’ll see bartenders serve them with sugar rims and umbrellas. Like me, you’ve probably also seen them served with an orange wheel.

Then there are the frozen Piña Coladas and fruit Piña Coladas, versions made with various styles of rum… People just can’t seem to resist putting their stamp on this classic.

Dealer’s choice, I suppose, or you can ask guests what preparation and garnish they prefer. Or, and this is the approach I recommend, nail down your bar’s signature Piña Colada, including garnish (or none).

Image: Kike Salazar N on Unsplash

July 31, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

by David Klemt

If I were to say that the Whiskey Sour is a cocktail with an uncertain and disputable origin, would you find that statement surprising?

Regular readers of KRG Hospitality articles probably won’t think that’s shocking. After all, it’s well known at this point that I enjoy diving into cocktails with “hazy” histories.

For example, there’s the Martini, the Mint Julep, and the Margarita. I guess if you want to ensure it causes endless debate, you should make certain your cocktail’s name begins with the letter “M.”

Dial “M” for “moot,” as it were.

One thing we can state with certainty is that the Whiskey Sour is a true classic cocktail. We can also state with conviction that it will always boast decades of popularity amongst drinkers, particularly in America.

This particular sour cocktail may not be among the top ten or 20 most-popular drinks, but it was at one point. One can make the argument that the Whiskey Sour was among the most popular for a century.

So popular, in fact, that we dedicate an entire day to it. We celebrate the Whiskey Sour on National Whiskey Sour Day, August 25. This year, we honor this classic on a Friday.

“M” is for “Mystery”

A ubiquitous tipple for a century? Looking into what we know of the Whiskey Sour’s history, yes.

That may seem like a bold claim. However, it’s possible its time in the spotlight boasts more than 100 years.

This comes down to the Whiskey Sour’s creation and when it became so popular. Interestingly, it appears historians can’t agree on when it was first mentioned.

For example, some say the recipe for the Whiskey Sour first showed up in print in Jerry Thomas’ The Bar-Tenders Guide. This legendary tome was first published in 1862. Then there are those who say the cocktail first appeared in 1870 in the Waukesha Plaindealer, a Wisconsin newspaper.

Of course, there’s a technicality. In The Bar-Tenders Guide, the 1862 print specifically mentions the Brandy Sour, the Gin Sour, and a rum sour called the Santa Cruz.

Either way, we can assume with confidence that the cocktail was known to at least a handful of bartenders and bar guests before the recipe was published in 1862. Then we can add this quote from David Wondrich about just how important the Whiskey Sour has been to American bargoers:

“From roughly the 1860s to the 1960s, the Sour, and particularly its whiskey incarnation, was one of the cardinal points of American drinking, and one of the few drinks that could come near to slugging it out with the vast tribe of cocktails in terms of day-in, day-out popularity.”

If we trust Wondrich’s understanding of cocktail, spirits, and bar history—and I think it’s safe to say we absolutely can—there’s at least a century’s worth of human history where at least Americans couldn’t seem to enjoy enough Whiskey Sours.

Prepare Your LTOs

As a member of the Sour Family of cocktails, the Whiskey Sour makes it easy to build an LTO menu for National Whiskey Sour Day.

First, of course, there’s the standard Whiskey Sour recipe: two ounces whiskey, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, and a small egg white (optional).

Then there’s one of my favorite cocktails, the Penicillin: two ounces blended Scotch, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce honey-ginger syrup, and 1/4-ounce Laphroaig 10 or other Islay Scotch (fl0at).

Finally, to add a third LTO because people like things in threes, there’s the New York or Continental or Southern Whiskey Sour: two ounces rye or bourbon, one ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, one small egg white (optional), and 1/2-ounce red wine (float).

Of course, there are other riffs on the Whiskey Sour (the Gold Rush, for example) you can include on your LTO menu.

There you have it: another cocktail whose creator will likely never get full credit for their influential invention. Cheers to this mystery person!

Image: Ambitious Studio* – Rick Barrett on Unsplash

Mint Julep in copper Woodford Reserve cup

May 23, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Sugar. Water. Whiskey. Mint.

Sugar. Water. Whiskey. Mint.

by David Klemt

…and sometimes Angostura bitters.

Get ready to break out the stainless steel and copper cups, whiskey, and crushed ice: National Mint Julep Day is right around the corner.

This classic cocktail’s traditional time to shine—Derby Day—has come and gone. However, we celebrate this ice-cold drink on May 30. This year, FYI, this bar and restaurant holiday falls on a Tuesday.

While many people associate the Mint Julep with the Kentucky Derby and the South, the drink traces its origin to Persia. According to some historians—the fun experts who love researching culinary and drinking history—”julep” is a derivation of “julepe,” which derives from “golâb.” “Julepe” is a Spanish Arabic word that comes from “golâb,” a Persian word that translates to “rosewater.” As one might expect from the translation, golâb was a drink made by combining water with rose petals.

Over time, it’s believed, the rose petals were replaced by people making Juleps in the Mediterranean. The replacement? Mint leaves native to the area.

Eventually, like so many centuries-old drinks, medicinal elements were introduced. The English Julep, for example, added alcohol and camphor. To think, there are decades of human history where doctors prescribed cocktails to patients.

The Kentucky Connection

Of course, like so many centuries-old drinks, it’s difficult to separate the fictitious from the factual. Some say mentions of the Mint Julep can be traced to 1770s, others say the early 1800s.

As far as the Kentucky connection, there are historians that say Henry Clay, who served as a Kentucky senator and congressman, brought the Mint Julep to Washington, DC in 1850. Clay is said to have shared the recipe with the Round Robin Bar at the Willard’s Hotel (now the Willard InterContinental). The hotel’s website makes reference to this part of the Mint Julep’s history (or legend, as it were).

Chris Morris, Master Distiller for Woodford Reserve for 20 years and now the distillery’s Master Distillery Emeritus, supports the idea, historically, that the Mint Julep was a medicinal cocktail.

“The Mint Julep has a long history, and in the 1800s it was considered a morning drink,” Morris has said. “People working on horse farms or in the horse-racing industry during this time period may wake up with aches and pains.”

It’s safe to say Morris and Woodford know their way around a Mint Julep.

Further, if you dig deep enough, you’ll come across mentions of horse jockeys taking home Julep cups as trophies. Literal trophy cups, if you will.

Consequently, given its ties to horse racing, it makes sense that the Mint Julep would one day become the Kentucky Derby‘s official drink. Of course, as this brief and (hopefully mostly) factual history shows, the Mint Julep undoubtedly had a presence at the famous race long before 1939.

Craft Your Own

Below you’ll find two recipes for your National Mint Julep Day LTO menu. However, this is one classic that people don’t seem to gatekeep much.

In fact, industry experts like Chris Morris encourage experimentation and creation of signature Mint Juleps. So, engage your bar and culinary teams, highlight flavors authentic to your menu and brand, and come up with your own variation.

To help you get started, bear in mind that while spearmint is a common ingredient, there are other species of mint available. The base spirit can also be substituted. Per some cocktail historians, genever-powered Mint Juleps were a common variation in the 1800s.

There’s nothing wrong with sticking to tradition. However, the Mint Julep practically begs for experimentation. Flavored syrups, all manner of spirits and liqueurs, garnishes… National Mint Julep Day is perfect for the LTO treatment.

Cheers!

Mint Julep

2 oz. Bourbon
0.25 oz. Simple syrup
6 to 8 Mint leaves
Mint sprig to garnish
Angostura bitters to garnish (optional)
Crushed or shaved ice

Add simple syrup and mint leaves to Julep cup, and muddle. Next, add bourbon and crushed or shaved ice. Tightly pack ice in cup, then stir until frost builds on exterior of Julep cup. Top with more crushed or shaved ice, and form a dome on top of cup. Add mint sprig to garnish. If desired, also garnish with two or three drops of Angostura bitters.

Woodford Reserve Secretariat’s Mint Julep

This recipe is for the special Mint Julep served at this year’s Kentucky Derby.

2 oz. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
1 oz. Housemade chestnut liqueur
1 sprig of Mint, for garnish
1 stalk of Virginia bluebells, for garnish

Pack a Julep cup with crushed ice, making sure to make a dome over the lip of the cup. Add the whiskey and liqueur to a mixing glass and stir. Pour over the prepared cup. Garnish with one sprig of mint and one stalk of Virginia bluebells.

Should you prefer a more traditional build, express the oils of a mint leaf inside the cup. Add the bourbon, chestnut liqueur, and crushed ice. Garnish with more crushed ice, mint, and Virginia bluebells, then serve.

Image: Adam Jaime on Unsplash

August 3, 2022by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

8 Books to Read this Month: TOTC Edition

8 Books to Read this Month: Tales of the Cocktail Edition

by David Klemt

This month’s engaging and informative book selections consist of the eight finalists from two of the 2022 Spirited Awards writing categories.

For your convenience, the award winner kicks off each category below. To review July’s book recommendations, click here.

Let’s jump in!

Best New Cocktail or Bartending Book

WINNER: The Japanese Art of the Cocktail

This is the first cocktail book written by Masahiro Urushido, the award-winning bartender from NYC’s Katana Kitten. After just one year with Urushido at the helm, Katana Kitten took home a 2019 Spirited Award. The Japanese Art of the Cocktail features 80 recipes and serves as a deep dive into a unique approach to cocktails and technique.

Death & Co: Welcome Home

The third book from Alex Day, Nick Fauchald, and David Kaplan, the team behind Death & Co., features more than 400 recipes. Now, while this book targets home bartenders, it’s also beneficial to bar professionals as it delves into the Death & Co. cocktail development program. Is that worth a $35 investment? Absolutely. Pick up Death & Co. Welcome Home today.

The Cocktail Seminars

As the story goes, author Brian D. Hoefling taught his fellow Yale students about cocktails and build techniques during his senior year. The Cocktail Seminars is a collection of five of Hoefling’s education seminars and spans 30 cocktail recipes. Along with technique, readers will learn about the history of cocktails, which they and their bar teams can leverage to engage with guests.

The Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques, and Recipes

The Way of the Cocktail comes from Julia Momosé, one of the minds behind Chicago cocktail destination Kumiko. From classics to new riffs, the recipes in this book are based on 24 micro-seasons.

Best New Book on Drinks Culture, History, or Spirits

WINNER: The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails

David Wondrich and Noah Rothbaum team up for likely the deepest dive into the role alcohol plays in human history. The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails is everything you ever wanted to know about fermentation, distillation, aging, cocktails, cocktail bars, and more. In addition to global techniques and processes, readers will be treated to illustrations, a guide to making drinks, and even a timeline of distillation and spirits.

Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey

Clay Risen is considered an authority on spirits. In particular, he’s lauded as an expert on whiskey. Bourbon lovers will appreciate the Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey box set for what it is: a definitive history of America’s native spirit. Along with profiles of Kentucky distillers, Risen has included interviews and photographs to tell the story of bourbon.

Drunk: How We Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way to Civilization

Edward Slingerland takes a look at not just the history of imbibing but what has motivated humans to catch a buzz with alcohol. Drunk goes far beyond anecdotes, myth and lore and uses science to address why alcohol is so important to so many people. More case study than well-spun yarn, Drunk is as entertaining as it is investigative.

Girly Drinks: A World History of Women and Alcohol

Written by Mallory O’Meara, Girly Drinks takes a hard look at the gendering of bars, brewing, distillation, and drinking culture. O’Meara also delves into the history and cultural importance of women bartenders like Ada Coleman, creator of the Hanky Panky.

“Filling a crucial gap in culinary history, O’Meara dismantles the long-standing patriarchal traditions at the heart of these very drinking cultures, in the hope that readers everywhere can look to each celebrated woman in this book—and proudly have what she’s having.”

Image: Mikołaj on Unsplash

July 4, 2022by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

5 Books to Read this Month: July 2022

5 Books to Read this Month: July 2022

by David Klemt

This month’s engaging and informative book selections will help you develop next-level beverage techniques and drink menus throughout 2022.

To review June’s book recommendations, click here.

Let’s jump in!

The Bartender’s Manifesto

Spirits, cocktail and industry author Emma Janzen partners with Toby Maloney and the bar team at the Violet Hour. Since 2007, the Violet Hour has not only been serving incredible cocktails in Chicago, the bar has also been leading the way in cocktail training.

So, who better to learn from to nail the fundamentals, tap into your creativity, and understand every element of crafting cocktails? Pick up The Bartender’s Manifesto today. As of publication of this article, Amazon is offering $2.70 off the hardcover.

Black Mixcellence: A Comprehensive Guide to Black Mixology

Marketing strategist and award-winning author Tamika Hall collaborates with one of my favorite industry people, Colin Asare-Appiah, to bring us this awesome book.

Black Mixcellence delves into the impact of Black entrepreneurs, educators, and mixologists on the hospitality, spirits, and cocktail spaces. Along with the incredible stories, there are 70 cocktail recipes included in Black Mixcellence. Place your pre-order today!

Smoked Cocktails: From Mixology To Smoking Techniques

You and your bar team may have noticed that smoking cocktails is once again “on trend.” To be fair, I don’t think this cocktail build and presentation technique ever became unpopular.

In Smoked Cocktails you’ll learn not only how smoke plays with and enhances other flavors and aromas, author Benji O’Day also covers cocktail history, bartending techniques, and much more. Grab the paperback from Amazon today.

Cocktail Chemistry

Leveraging nostalgia and pop culture can be a lucrative way of boosting traffic, generating revenue, and increasing social media engagement. Written and curated by Nick Fisher, Cocktail Chemistry features cocktail recipes from iconic and beloved movies and television shows.

In addition, this informative cocktail book includes how-tos spanning a range of important bar techniques, from making clear ice to creating your own infusions. Pick up this hardcover now.

The Concise Guide to Wine and Blind Tasting: Volume 1

Do you have a robust wine program? Are you interested in demystifying wine and enhancing your front-of-house team’s knowledge of wine? Do you just not want your bar team or servers to answer guests’ wine questions with a frustrating “I don’t know”?

This guide, according to The Times Literary Supplement, delivers a “comprehensive education in wine.” Included in The Concise Guide to Wine and Blind Tasting: Volume 1 are the philosophy and history of wine, the distinctive characteristics of several wine regions, the science and art behind blind wine tasting, and more.

Image: Mikołaj on Unsplash