Drink origin | KRG Hospitality

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Daiquiri

by David Klemt

Like some other simple cocktails, the Daiquiri makes the case for building drinks with but a few elements and with the proper technique.

The keys are the quality of the ingredients, technique, and hospitality. Made with just three items—rum, lime juice, and sugar syrup—the Daiquiri has etched itself onto Cocktail Mount Rushmore. That imaginary cocktail landmark also includes the Margarita, of course.

So simple is the Daiquiri that it’s used to gauge bartender proficiency, much like its peer the Margarita.

Many a well-known bartender—revered, infamous or otherwise—will throw down the Daiquiri gauntlet after encountering an upstart boasting about their latest 10-ingredient, split-base cocktail tomfoolery.

Sure, they can make you a drink that takes ten minutes to build, and you’ll likely remember the experience, for better or worse. But can they knock your socks off with a simple Daiquiri?

But where does the Daiquiri come from? Just like I’ve done with the Martini, Piña Colada, and Whiskey Sour, let’s dive into this classic’s history.

History Lesson

I’m sure you’ll be absolutely aghast to learn that the exact origins of the Daiquiri aren’t crystal clear. However, it’s widely accepted that the cocktail was invented in Cuba two years before the Spanish-American War kicked off in 1898.

The creator was Jennings Cox, a claim backed up by the discovery of a recipe card signed by Cox and dated 1896. It’s believed that the drink was named for the port town of Daiquiri.

Just over a decade later, the Daiquiri was introduced to the United States in 1909 by Rear Admiral Lucius W. Johnson. After trying one in Cuba and liking what he tasted, he brought the recipe back to the Army and Navy Club in Washington, DC. Members introduced others to the Daiquiri, and it eventually became one of the most popular cocktails in the world.

That is, unless you choose to believe the rumor that the drink found itself in New York in 1902.

Going down this path of Daiquiri lore, US Congressman William A. Chanler (D-NY) bought iron mines in Cuba. While he was in Cuba he was introduced to the Daiquiri. In turn, Chanler brought the Daiquiri to New York City, sharing it with several clubs of which he was a member, such as the New York Yacht Club and Knickerbocker Club.

Recipe Refinement

The Daiquiri’s story doesn’t end there, however. There are two important bartenders who deserve credit for refining the original recipe.

First up is Emilio “El Maragato” Gonzalez, who tended bar at the Hotel Plaza in Havana, Cuba. Whereas the Cox build was served in a tall glass over cracked ice, El Maragato is credited as the first to shake and strain the Daiquiri, serving it up it in a coupe. And while Cox used brown sugar in the original, Gonzalez used white sugar.

Then, we have Constantino “Constante” Ribalaigua Vert. Constante owned and worked behind the stick at a bar you may have heard of, El Floridita, also in Havana. If you can’t quite put your finger on why you know that bar’s name, it’s because Earnest Hemingway plays a role in its fame.

Ribalaigua invented the frozen Daiquiri, and subsequently the Papa Doble or Hemingway Daiquiri, which was Constante’s original build with less (or zero) sugar and double the rum.

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry says in his book Potions of the Caribbean that Hemingway once put down 15 Papa Dobles. In another book, To Have and Have Another: A Hemingway Cocktail Companion, author Phillip Greene says Hemingway managed seventeen.

Those who have visited Herbs & Rye, one of the best cocktail bars in America, know that the first cocktail under the Prohibition Era section of the menu is a Hemingway Daiquiri.

Below you’ll find a traditional Daiquiri recipe and the Hemingway Daiquiri build. Cheers!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
¾ ounce Demerara sugar syrup
Lime twist to garnish

Either fill a coupe with ice or pull a chilled coupe from your refrigerator. Set aside. Add all ingredients minus the garnish to a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain into the prepared coupe, garnish, and serve.

Papa Doble aka Hemingway Daiquiri recipe

2 ounces White rum
¾ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
½ ounce Maraschino liqueur
Lime wheel to garnish

Follow the build instructions above; it’s that simple!

Image: Tai’s Captures on Unsplash

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

by David Klemt

Temperatures are rising and there are still about six weeks of summer left, so let’s take a look at a refreshing warm-weather hero: the Piña Colada.

So far we’ve looked at the Martini and Whiskey Sour. Now, it’s another classic’s turn in the Drink Donnybrook spotlight.

One could claim that the Piña Colada is one of the original “lost cocktails.” Of course, that depends on which origin story turns out to be true.

If the Piña Colada dates back to the first quarter of the 19th century, then it’s a pirate cocktail once lost to the winds of time. Puerto Rican pirate Roberto Cofresí, also known as El Pirata Cofresí, supposedly served his crews a drink consisting of rum, coconut, and pineapple. Sounds like a Piña Colada to me.

The reason I said it could be considered an original lost cocktail is that Cofresí died in 1825. Disputed history says his drink recipe disappeared with his death.

However, the Piña Colada may have far less metal roots than being invented by a famous pirate. Puerto Rico’s official drink may have simply been created by a bartender.

One Drink, Three Bartenders

Ramón “Monchito” Marrero may have created the Piña Colada while at the helm of the Beachcomber Bar at the Caribe Hilton in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, in 1952. Or maybe it was 1954.

It’s almost like bartenders should be able to more easily protect their intellectual properties so we can identify their cocktails’ true origins.

Forgive the digression. You’ll be shocked—shocked, I say—to learn that another bartender may have created the Piña Colada. During the same year. At the same hotel.

That bartender is Ricardo García, and the claim is that he invented the drink during a coconut shortage.

Would it surprise you to learn that a third bartender working in Old San Juan also claimed credit for the Piña Colada? Ramón Portas Mignot said he came up with this tropical classic in 1963 at Barrachina. The restaurant and bar’s ownership apparently agreed, because they installed a plaque at the front door backing Mignot’s claim.

Hey, if it has a plaque, it must be true; they don’t just give those to anyone. Oh, and you can check out that plaque for yourself: Barrachina still exists and enjoys a 4.5 rating from over 4,100 Google reviews.

A Rough Patch

Unfortunately, once anointed “the world’s most famous drink,” the Piña Colada had a rough, well, several decades.

In the 1970s, the drink’s quality plunged and fell out of favor with cocktailians. Any technique for building the nautical libation went down the bar sink. It was easier and cheaper to just make Piña Coladas with premade mixes and cheap rum.

Add to that the trend toward serving bastardized versions in oversized glassware at mediocre hotel pools, tourist trap hotel bars, weird supper clubs nowhere near a beach, and on cruise ships and you can see why cocktail connoisseurs snubbed this classic.

The Cocktail Revolution of the 2000s helped restore the Piña Colada’s dignity and popularity. It may not find itself in as much demand as the Margarita or Daiquiri, but it’s no longer missing from serious cocktail programs.

So raise a Hurricane—or a cocktail glass or coupe—to the Piña Colada today. ¡Salud!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ½ ounces Cream of coconut
1 ½ ounces Pineapple juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
Pineapple leaf and pineapple wedge for garnish

For a more traditional preparation, fill a Hurricane glass with ice and set to the side. Add the liquid ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake for at least 30 seconds. Toss the ice from the Hurricane glass and replace with pebble ice. Strain cocktail into glass and garnish.

Now, you don’t need to serve a Piña Colada in a Hurricane. Plenty of bars and restaurants send them across the bar in coupes or other cocktails glasses, sans garnish. Speaking of garnishing this classic, some people expect whipped cream, a lime wedge or wheel, a cherry, or even all three. You’ll see bartenders serve them with sugar rims and umbrellas. Like me, you’ve probably also seen them served with an orange wheel.

Then there are the frozen Piña Coladas and fruit Piña Coladas, versions made with various styles of rum… People just can’t seem to resist putting their stamp on this classic.

Dealer’s choice, I suppose, or you can ask guests what preparation and garnish they prefer. Or, and this is the approach I recommend, nail down your bar’s signature Piña Colada, including garnish (or none).

Image: Kike Salazar N on Unsplash