Lab-grown Chicken Makes its Move
by David Klemt
Lab-grown or cell-cultivated chicken from GOOD Meat.
A month after receiving USDA approval to serve lab-grown meat to restaurant guests, GOOD Meat and Upside Foods can boast support from two well-known chefs.
Lab-grown meat, also known as “cultivated” or “cell-cultivated” meat, has been approved by the USDA to be served to guests at two restaurants.
One, China Chilcano, is owned and operated by Chef José Andrés. The other restaurant debuting lab-grown meat is Bar Crenn by Chef Dominique Crenn. The former is in Washington, DC, while the latter is in San Francisco. Both GOOD Meat and Upside Foods operate out of California.
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Bar Crenn boasts one Michelin Star, and China Chilcano has enjoyed Bib Gourmand awards from the Michelin Guide for several years.
In other words, the two companies producing cell-cultivated meats and awarded USDA approval have chosen their debut restaurants well. These are high-profile, award-winning, exciting, and approachable restaurants run by revered chefs.
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Additionally, both Chef Andrés and Chef Crenn make their commitment to sustainability known. Further, Chef Crenn’s Atelier Crenn earned one of the first Green Star designations back in 2020. The restaurant also enjoys three Michelin Stars.
And we’re all well aware of Chef Andrés’ commitment to humanitarian efforts through World Central Kitchen, a non-profit organization KRG Hospitality supports.
It’s early days but we’ll be following the diner response to cultivated meats at China Chilcano and Bar Crenn.
Lab-grown Meats
Before I dive further into cell-cultivated meats, I’ll address a few big questions:
- Is lab-grown meat plant-based?
- Are these products vegetarian?
- Are these products vegan?
The answer to all three questions is no.
To be very clear, lab-grown meats are produce using using animal cells. Therefore, these are animal proteins and animal products.
The GOOD Meat chicken nutrition label reads as follows: “Cell-Cultivated Chicken (cultivated chicken cells, salt), Wheat Gluten, Soy Protein Concentrate, Sunflower and Coconut Oils, Contains less than 2% of Modified Food Starch, Natural Flavors, Salt, Soy Lecithin. Contains Wheat, Soy.”
Upside Foods’ label reads: “Cell-cultivated chicken, Maltodextrin, Transglutaminase (Binding Agent).”
In short, this is chicken.
What’s the Point?
So, you may be wondering why anyone is producing cell-cultivated chicken. GOOD Meat and Upside Foods answer this question on their websites.
In an effort to be succinct, these companies want us to do away with the harm to animals, ourselves, and the planet that results from traditional meat production.
Using cell cultivation to produce meat, a single cell can, per GOOD Meat, produce an “infinite amount of meat.” Zero animal slaughter. Millions to billions of acres of land can be used for something besides raising and slaughtering animals.
As Upside Foods explains it, “At scale, it’s simply a more efficient, more humane, and more future-friendly way to grow high-quality meat for food lovers everywhere.”
Further, it’s theorized that lab-grown meat production cuts water use for beef production (as an example) in half, keeps pollution out of our oceans, and removes millions of tons of CO2 emissions.
I’m not an environmental scientist or specialist, nor am I involved in food production. However, if these claims are accurate, that’s a lot of positivity for the future of our planet.
Considerations
First, we can’t expect everyone to believe lab-grown meats are safe. Some meat consumers are simply not going to find these products appealing.
Second, an array of consumers will look at cell-cultivated meats through various ethical and moral lenses.
Third, just the words “lab grown” and even “cell cultivated” will turn some guests off trying these meat products.
And then there’s the fact that GOOD Meat and Upside Foods chicken products are just now finding their ways into restaurants in the US. And by restaurants, I mean two. Two restaurants in the whole of the US. It’s simply too soon to know how they’ll be received.
Finally, cost. Operators are already running on razor-thin margins. They must consider the cost of these items, and the cost of how they’re perceived by guests.
I’ll admit that, right now, I like the idea of cell-cultivated meat. If accurate, I like what these products may be able to do for our planet. I eat meat and I love the idea of animals not suffering harm, abuse, fear, and slaughter.
I would try GOOD Meat chicken. And I’d try Upside Foods chicken, along with their other cell-cultivated products (beef meatballs, duck, pork, etc.). But I’m just one person, and I don’t know how well-received these items will be throughout North America.
To operators, I say keep these foods on your radar. You should know your guests better than anyone else, so you only you know if they’re ready for lab-grown meats on your menu.
Image: GOOD Meat
