History | KRG Hospitality

An AI-generated image of a green grasshopper and dark scorpion facing off over a bottle of creme de menthe

August 16, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Grasshopper & Stinger

Drink Donnybrook: Grasshopper & Stinger

by David Klemt

You won’t believe this…but this isn’t a photo, it’s an AI image *gasp*

The Grasshopper and Stinger are two classic cocktails that seem worlds apart from one another, but they share a common ingredient.

That ingredient is crème de menthe. Like many of the cocktails I break down in Drink Donnybrook features, this legendary liqueur’s origins are up for debate.

So, this Donnybrook goes beyond the well-known twofer; it’s a threefer. Crème de menthe and it’s two best-known cocktail appearances—the Grasshopper and Stinger—each have nebulous geneses.

Really, though, this Donnybrook is about crème de menthe. And why am I focusing on this liqueur? To give operators and their bar teams time to prepare LTO menus for Sunday, September 15, which is National Crème de Menthe Day.

Cheers!

Mint Cream

Despite the crème in its name, this liqueur doesn’t contain any dairy. In fact, “mint cream” is said to be vegan by some sources: it contains no animal products unless otherwise specified.

The term “crème” on French labels indicates that there’s a lot of sugar in a product.

All you need to make crème de menthe is grain alcohol, mint or peppermint, and sugar. One simply steeps the mint in the alcohol for several days, adds sugar, and can opt to age the liquid (usually about a month).

This sweet, minty liqueur tends to weigh in at 15- to 20-percent ABV. However, there are 30-percent ABV versions on the market. So, this seemingly harmless drink can pack quite a wallop.

Producing crème de menthe may be simple, but nailing down its origin story? Not quite as easy.

It’s possible that one of this liqueur’s ancestors dates as far back as the early 1500s. A book from 1512 about distillation, written by a German botanist and surgeon, touches on a water infused with “red mint.” If one could time travel to Boston in 1712, they’d be able to visit a tavern that sold a drink made of rum and water infused with mint.

That time traveler could then jump ahead 63 years, heading to France in 1775. It’s at this time that a pharmacist created what could possibly be the first known recipe for crème de menthe. However, another recipe, one that we could consider a “commercial” version, became available in France in 1796.

Nearly a century later, Emile Giffard would bring his crème de menthe to market. If that name sounds familiar, there’s good reason: he’s the namesake of La Maison Giffard. The brand has been making liqueurs and syrups for generations.

The Stinger

Alright, now that we’ve basically settled nothing regarding the origins of crème de menthe (other than Emile Giffard getting most of the credit for its creation as we know it today), let’s dive into cocktails.

Two classics are perhaps best-known for the inclusion of crème de menthe in their recipes. One of these is the Stinger.

I’m starting with the Stinger because it predates the other famous crème de menthe cocktail by five years. Or maybe 16 years. Or maybe even longer. We think.

We can choose to believe Stinger was first crafted in 1914. That would require us to accept as evidence that the recipe was first published that year in the book Drinks. Possible, but the recipe could’ve been floating around before that book came out.

Another option is to give Reginald Vanderbilt—father of Gloria Vanderbilt, and grandfather to Anderson Cooper—credit as the creator. David Wondrich, cocktail historian extraordinaire, has mentioned that Reginald helped make the Stinger famous. It’s said that he would serve what was apparently his favorite tipple to guests.

Going further, an Ohio newspaper supposedly named Reginald as the drink’s inventor in the 1920s.

What I can say is this: the Stinger may date back to the 1890s, and nobody can tell us definitively who deserves the credit for creating the recipe.

The Grasshopper

It’s possible that the Grasshopper was invented in New Orleans in 1918.

Tujague’s Restaurant, located in the French Quarter, first opened its doors in 1856. Around 1914, the restaurant was sold to Philip Guichet, Sr. To this day, Tujague’s gives credit to Guichet for inventing the Grasshopper.

Anyone who has read previous Drink Donnybrooks probably isn’t surprised to learn that we aren’t sure who actually invented the Grasshopper. By the way, Tujague’s also appears to take credit for creating the Whiskey Punch.

What drink historians do appear to agree on is that it took around four decades for the Grasshopper to become popular. And when it did, the American South appeared to lead the charge.

The original recipe—possibly from Philip Guichet, Sr.—calls for three ingredients in equal parts: green crème de menthe, white crème de cacao, and heavy cream. (Oh, did I mention that crème de menthe comes in either colorless or green versions? Well, now I have done.)

However, bartenders have been playing around with Grasshopper build specs for many years.

One simple variant comes from Dale DeGroff. Shake one part green crème de menthe, one part white crème de cacao, and two parts heavy cream with ice. Strain into a chilled glass, then dust with grated nutmeg.

Original (maybe?) Stinger

3 parts Brandy
1 part White/Colorless crème de menthe

Add ingredients and ice to a mixing glass, and stir. Strain into a rocks glass, as the original was served neat before Prohibition. After Prohibition, serving Stingers over cracked ice became common practice. Further, modern bartenders tend to use Fine Cognac, premium crème de menthe (like Giffard’s), and serve Stingers over large ice cubes.

Original (could be?) Grasshopper

Add equal parts of green crème de menthe, crème de cacao, and heavy cream to a shaker with ice. Shake well, then strain into a glass.

Image: Microsoft Designer

An AI-generated, street-style image of a red and a blue cocktail crossed at the glass stems, against a blue, white, and red graffiti background

July 12, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champs

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champagne

by David Klemt

That’s some interesting stemware…and the cocktail on the right is an interesting color.

The French have contributed more than Champagne, Cognac, Armagnac, Grand Marnier, and Cointreau to global cocktail culture.

There at least a dozen cocktails that originate from France. And, of course, there are even more from one of the most French-influenced cities in the US, New Orleans.

Since Bastille Day is almost upon us I want to share ten cocktail recipes with origin stories we can trace back to France. Now, if celebrating Bastille Day isn’t your thing, you can celebrate National Grand Marnier Day instead.

Basically, if a cocktail below calls for orange liqueur, you and your bar team can use Grand Marnier. But…allow me to nerd out for a moment about orange liqueur and France.

Orange Liqueur vs. Triple Sec vs. Orange Curaçao

As we’re taught early on, all squares are rectangles (and rhombuses). However, not all rectangles (or rhombuses) are squares. Why am I bringing up geometric shapes in an article about cocktails?

Think of orange liqueur as a rectangle or rhombus. All orange curaçaos and triple secs can be considered orange liqueurs, but not all orange liqueurs are triple secs or orange curaçaos, if we want to be pedantic.

Generally speaking, triple sec is French orange liqueur. Cointreau, as an example, is a triple sec. It’s also an orange liqueur, and one can argue it’s an orange curaçao, although it isn’t made with Lahara orange. Grand Marnier is French but is not a triple sec. Why not? Because Grand Marnier is triple sec blended with Cognac. Pedantry strikes again!

Why does this matter? When choosing your orange liqueur, keep in mind that they don’t all taste the same. Their unique flavors will have an impact on a given cocktail. So, if you were to build a Sidecar with Grand Marnier rather than Cointreau, they’d taste noticeably different. This is, in part, due to the fact that the Sidecar is a Cognac recipe, and Grand Marnier is made with Cognac.

Thank you for indulging me there. Feel free to share that knowledge with your guests, but stop if their eyes start glazing over.

Consider featuring any of the cocktail recipes below this weekend. Sunday, July 14, is Bastille Day, or National Grand Marnier Day, if you prefer. Cheers!

French 75

This classic’s original form can be tracked to the 1910s and the famous New York Bar, located in Paris. Eventually, the venue would become Harry’s New York Bar, named for proprietor, bartender, and writer Harry MacElhone.

By the 1920s, the “final form” of the French 75 we all know and love would come into existence. However, people are still tweaking this classic’s build.

For the traditionalists out there, the French 75 is easy to make: one part gin, and a half-part each of lemon juice and simple syrup, topped with three parts sparkling wine. Don’t forget the lemon twist to garnish!

Boulevardier

As was the case with so many others during the modern Cocktail Revival—and the subsequent Negroni craze—the Boulevardier was my go-to cocktail for quite some time. Interestingly, this cocktail supposedly never “took” until the 2000s.

Like the French 75, the Boulevardier can be traced to Harry’s New York Bar and 1920s Paris. However, the credit for this one goes to a magazine publisher, according to Harry himself.

For this recipe, pretend you’re making a Negroni…but swap out the gin for bourbon or rye. Oh, and forget the 1:1:1 Negroni ratio; this isn’t an equal parts situation. Instead, combine one part Campari with one part sweet vermouth, but bump up the whiskey to one-and-one-quarter parts.

Old Pal

The Old Pal is thought to be a spin on the Boulevardier by that cocktail’s creator, Harry MacElhone, at his bar in Paris.

Whereas the Boulevardier is considered by someone a whiskey-based riff on the Negroni, that’s not an equal-parts build. This, however, is.

Stir equal parts rye whiskey, Campari, and dry vermouth in a mixing glass with ice. Then, strain it into a chilled coupe. Some modern recipes call for doubling the rye, so experimentation is in order.

Sidecar

Okay, let’s start a fight: the Sidecar was created at the Ritz Paris, in Paris, in the 1920s. Why should that cause a kerfuffle? Well, the drink could also be a Pat MacGarry creation, invented in London.

Making this even more contentious is that Harry (yes, of Harry’s New York Bar) went from crediting MacGarry to claiming credit himself. Oh, and sources in both Paris and London claim the same story to be true: a guest arrived at their bar on a motorcycle, and the bartender at the time came up with this drink for said guest.

But wait, il y a plus! Living legend Dale DeGroff has stated that he believes the name references a bonus shot. This is the amount of cocktail left over after shaking and straining the drink, and served on the side in a shot glass.

Regardless of the true story, add three-quarters of an ounce each orange liqueur and lemon juice, then double that amount of Cognac. Prep a coupe with a sugar rim, shake the mixture, strain it into the glass, and garnish with an orange twist.

Between the Sheets

Are you getting the impression that we should just credit with Harry MacElhone with the creation of every drink originating from Paris? I won’t blame you if you are, since he’s credited with Between the Sheets as well. Is he actually the creator? Maybe I’ll address that in a future Drink Donnybrook.

To build this cocktail, pretend you’re making a Sidecar. Then, pick up a bottle of rum. This is an equal parts cocktail, calling for three-quarters of a part of Cognac, rum, and orange liqueur, and a quarter-part of lemon juice.

White Lady

This MacElhone creation has an interesting history. As the story goes, he created the original version in London in the late 1910s. He served it in its precursor form, then overhauled the recipe in Paris. At his bar. In the 1920s. Déjà vu, anyone?

And what an overhaul the recipe underwent. The original White Lady was a blend of crème de menthe, triple sec, and lemon juice. However, MacElhone eschewed crème de menthe in Paris, replacing it with gin. Additionally, he added an egg white and a dry shake.

Mimosa

Surely, the simple two-ingredient Mimosa must have a clear origin, right? Well…maybe.

Some say the Mimosa was created at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in the mid-1920s. Others believe it was invented in the 1930s. Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if the drink was first crafted in the 1910s or earlier by someone who simply wanted to toss some sparkling wine into their orange juice.

Ritz bartender Frank Meier may be the drink’s creator. However, people who dispute this point to his 1936 book The Artistry of Mixing Drinks. Recipes with Meier’s initials inside of a diamond next to recipes marked this as his creations. No such symbol appears next to the Mimosa.

If you need this complex recipe, it’s two ounces of chilled orange juice, topped with sparkling wine. I prefer Crémant to Champagne, but do whatever works best. In fact, operators can upsell the bubbles for their signature Mimosas.

Death in the Afternoon

I’m hesitant to include this cocktail, for a couple of reasons. One, I’m not sure it was created in France. There’s reason to believe it was invented as an homage to France, but outside of the country.

Second, Ernest Hemingway is given the credit as its creator. However, Hemingway historians have been dubious of claims involving the author and his relationship to certain drinks and bars.

That said, Hemingway purportedly came up with this drink while spending time in France in the 1920s. Add one-and-a-half parts absinthe to a coupe, then add three times that amount of chilled Champagne until the mixture is “milky” in appearance. Next, I assume, comes a nap.

Yellow

How about a modern classic? Yellow is a signature cocktail at Cravan, owned by restaurateur, bartender, and historian Franck Audoux.

If you’re visiting Paris, the original Cravan location is in the 16th arrondissement of the capital city. However, a second location, the result of a partnership between Audoux and Moët Hennessy, is in the 6th arrondissement. If you’re curious, there are 20 arrondissements in Paris.

Audoux, again, a historian, created the Yellow as an homage to a cocktail said to have been popular in the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera: gin, Suze and Yellow Chartreuse. To make Audoux’s Yellow, add ice to a shaker, along with equal parts London Dry gin, Suze, Yellow Chartreuse, and lemon juice. Shake, then double strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.

L’Expérience 1

Hey, speaking of modern classics… Back in 2007, Experimental Group opened its first venue in Paris, Experimental Cocktail Club. Seventeen years later, the group has built an empire spanning eleven cities all over the world.

Moreover, Experimental Group operates not just bars but restaurants, clubs, and hotels. That said, while the group has grown, they haven’t forgotten their roots. L’Experience 1 appeared on the menu at their first-ever venue, and it remains their signature cocktail.

To make this modern drink, chill a Martini glass. Add three-quarters of a part each of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and elderflower liqueur, plus one-and-three-quarter parts of premium or super-premium vodka to a cocktail shaker. Before adding ice, add a basil leaf and one hand-crushed blade of lemongrass to the shaker as well. Shake, strain into the prepared glass, and garnish with a lemongrass leaf.

Santé!

AI image generator: Microsoft Designer

An AI-generated image of a male bartender preparing a Mojito cocktail

June 24, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Mojito

Drink Donnybrook: Mojito

by David Klemt

Hey, AI may be getting better at drawing hands. Also, I’m not sure about some of these bar tools…

Happy 440th-ish birthday to a rum-powered classic cocktail with a mashed-up, medicinal, mysterious, and complicated history: the Mojito.

Given that we can trace the Mojito to the 16th century, this drink more than justifies its classic cocktail status. Perhaps it’s deserving of placement on another tier of classic cocktail. Prototypical tipple, perhaps?

At any rate, some cocktail historians believe the Mojito’s origins reach as far back as 1586. However, we don’t know if we have to reach even further back in history for its creation. And nobody seems 100-percent certain who to credit for the creation of the Mojito.

Currently, most historians appear to think Sir Francis Drake is the inventor.

Now, before I proceed, let’s address Drake’s history.

A History of Significant Violence

Don’t let his title fool you into thinking he was a well-mannered gentleman; Drake was a pirate. Worse, he was a slave trader.

In fact, some label him one of the pioneers of the British slave trade.

He and his crews sacked and pillaged villages. They attacked ships for the sole purpose of plundering them. Drake was present for the Rathlin Island massacre, where in excess of 600 Scots and Irish were killed.

We’ll never know the overall death toll attributable to Drake and those under his command. Given that he was heavily involved in the slave trade, piracy, and raids, it’s at least in the hundreds.

“Firewater of Sugar Cane”

Personally, I don’t believe that we should give credit to Drake for inventing the Mojito. That honor should go to whoever gave him and his crew the ingredients for the drink.

If we accept that Drake and a small contingent landed on Cuban soil in search of medicine for scurvy and dysentery, an inhabitant of the island country created what would become the Mojito.

As a prevailing story goes, the Mojito was a tonic for a number of ailments, including the aforementioned scurvy and dysentery. In 1586, one of Drake’s crews was suffering from both (and probably other illnesses).

Upon their return from the shores of Cuba, the crew mixed the lime juice (which provided the vitamin C needed to combat scurvy), sugar cane juice, mint leaves, and aguardiente de caña they had been given by locals.

That last ingredient, the base for the tonic, translates to “firewater of sugar cane.”

Of course, we can argue over whether Drake or someone among his crew decided to create the tonic, or if they were told to so by the locals. I feel the answer is the latter, but I can’t prove my theory.

That said, aguardiente de caña can be considered the progenitor to rum. Dependent on a country’s rules regarding production and aging, aguardiente is the stage before the liquid can be labeled “rum” legally.

There was a time that a cocktail called “El Draque,” supposedly named for Drake, was popular in Cuba. So, where does the name “Mojito” come into the story?

No Concrete Answer

Prepare for a surprise: We don’t know with absolute certainty who named this cocktail, or when it attained its current moniker. This is in stark contrast to our previous Drink Donnybrook, which looks into the history of the Sazerac.

It’s possible, per historians, that African slaves named this drink. It could be tied to the Spanish word mojadito, which translates to “a little wet.” Or, perhaps, the cocktail is named for mojo, a Cuban seasoning with a lime base.

So, we don’t know exactly when the Mojito was invented. We don’t know exactly who invented it. And we don’t know who named it. We don’t even know when rum replaced aguardiente de caña in the recipe.

Even more frustrating is a bit of trivia related to one of the Mojito’s supposed greatest fans.

Supposedly, Earnest Hemingway loved Daiquiris and Mojitos. The following quote is attributed to the legendary writer:

“My Mojito in La Bodeguita and my Daiquiri in El Floridita.”

Allegedly (or allegedlies for my Letterkenny fans), Hemingway wrote that quote on the wall of La Bodeguita del Medio, where he supposedly crushed quite a few Mojitos.

Unfortunately, Hemingway biographers are dubious. They’re not not convinced Hemingway was a regular at La Bodeguita. Nor are they certain that the Mojito was in Hemingway’s cocktail repertoire.

What We Know

Well, I know this: We celebrate this iconic cocktail on July 11, National Mojito Day.

Oh, and we know that this drink holiday falls on a Thursday in 2024.

Of course, we also know that the Mojito is made with rum (now). Further, if you’d like to start an argument, I know that you can either declare the Mojito a member of the Sour, Fizz, or Punch family.

Finally, people around the world know the recipe, which you’ll find below. Cheers!

Mojito

2 oz. White rum
0.75 oz. Fresh-squeezed lime juice
0.5 oz. Cane syrup or simple syrup
10 Fresh mint leaves
Soda water to top
Mint leaves to garnish
Lime wheel or wedges to garnish

In a shaker or mixing glass, muddle the fresh mint leaves and syrup. Add the rum, fresh-squeezed lime juice, and ice. Either shake well or stir until well chilled. Strain into Collins glass over ice, then top with soda water, and garnish. Note: To serve as a swizzle, fill glass with pebble ice, strain the cocktail, gently swizzle, garnish, and serve.

Image: Shutterstock. Disclaimer: This image was generated by an Artificial Intelligence (AI) system.

AI-generated image of a Caesar salad in a bowl on a table with a birthday cake on top of it

June 10, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Happy Hundredth to the Caesar Salad!

Happy Hundredth to the Caesar Salad!

by David Klemt

AI generated some truly unhinged abominations before creating this image.

In about a month you and your kitchen team have the opportunity to pull out all the stops and celebrate an iconic menu item with your guests.

Whereas it’s often difficult to impossible, in contrast, to trace the origins of classic cocktails, we know much of the history of this particular dish. Driven by a restaurant in Tijuana, the Caesar salad will receive recognition on its hundredth “birthday” on July 4.

Or, more accurately, Caesar’s Restaurante Bar is planning a festival to celebrate the salad during the first week of July.

Given the attention this festival is receiving, savvy operators can also plan promotions around the Caesar salad.

Origins: Known

First, let’s get one of the greatest misconceptions surround this salad out of the way. No, it’s not named for Julius Caesar.

Next, let’s dispel another myth. No, the Caesar salad wasn’t around in Rome during Caesar’s reign. Well over two thousand years separate his five-year rule and the creation of this salad.

Rather, the salad carries the name, quite simply, of its creator, Cesare Cardini.

In 1913, Cardini traveled to New York City, and then headed to Montréal. He would return to Italy eventually, then come back to the US in 1919.

Before heading to Tijuana, Cardini ran at least one restaurant in Sacramento. Per reporting, he chose Tijuana—where he operated several restaurants and a hotel—to get around Prohibition.

Cardini’s daughter Rosa shared the salad’s story in 1987 with the Honolulu Star-Bulletin. According to Rosa, an overwhelming number of guests arrived at her father’s hotel a hundred years ago. Of course, these guests also slammed the restaurant.

Cardini didn’t have enough fresh veggies to feed everyone, so he chose to improvise. Part of that improvisation was putting on a performance, preparing the first-ever Caesar salad in the dining room in front of the guests.

So, tableside is the traditional, original preparation, an interesting detail.

More Misconceptions

The Caesar, in its original preparation, consists of a handful of specific ingredients. Cardini used romaine hearts, eggs, lemons, Worcestershire sauce, garlic-infused oil, Parmesan cheese, salt, and croutons.

However, per Rosa, it’s not just the namesake of the salad and its country of origin that people get incorrect. You’ll notice that anchovies aren’t among the ingredients. Neither are mayonnaise or Dijon mustard. And as far as the finer details, Rosa told the Honolulu Star-Bulletin that her father didn’t use raw eggs. Instead, they had been coddled, or boiled for one minute.

Another mistake for which Rosa expressed her disdain is tableside preppers putting all of the ingredients into a bowl at the same time to toss them. There’s a proper order, and you’ll find it at the bottom of this article.

Finally, Rosa noted that the appropriate method of tossing the romaine hearts is to use a gentle, under-over rolling technique. This approach prevents bruising of the leaves when done correctly.

Now, guests visiting bars and restaurants in America will have expectations on the Fourth of July. It’s likely that celebrating the Caesar salad isn’t one of them. So, operators should consider promoting their Caesars in the days before and just after that major holiday.

The Original

Below, the proper order to prepare a traditional Caesar salad, per Rosa Cardini. Following the instructions will yield four servings.

I’m going to skip the steps of making the garlic-infused oil and croutons in house.

The hearts (outer leaves removed) of two medium romaine lettuce heads should be cold and crisp. These can be kept whole or broken into two-inch lengths.
Pour four ounces of the infused oil over the leaves, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper.
Using the aforementioned proper technique, toss the leaves two or three times.
Break the coddled—not raw—eggs over the leaves. Add eight to ten drops of Worcestershire sauce along with the juice of two lemons. Again, toss two or three times.
Add six to eight tablespoons of Parmesan cheese and a half-cup of croutons (made with day-old white bread and a touch of the infused oil, traditionally), and toss again.
Serve on chilled salad plates.

There you have it. The original preparation.

According to Rosa, many guests simply picked up the leaves and ate them like slices of toast. Today’s guests will likely prefer a fork, but that’s an interesting note.

Of course, people enjoy putting their spin on this classic dish. In particular, adding all manner of proteins is a popular way to personalize a Caesar salad.

Recently, I tried a Caesar to which Everything But the Bagel seasoning had been added. Not bad.

Given its adaptability, it could be a good idea to create an LTO Caesar menu with the original at the top, along with two or three variations.

And, hey, while you’re at it, consider offering a Caesar cocktail (another very customizable item) alongside the Caesar salad. Why not?

Image: Shutterstock. Disclaimer: This image was generated by an Artificial Intelligence (AI) system.

March 20, 2024by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

USBG Announces First-ever Book

Serving Up History: USBG Announces First-ever Book

by David Klemt

Coming out in May, the United States Bartenders’ Guild has written a book that shares the story of the first 50 years of this crucial advocacy organization.

It’s not often that I publish a press release on its own. However, I find this announcement so important and interesting that I’m going to let the release do the talking.

I’ll be including this book in an upcoming monthly roundup. For now, please read the release below for more information.

Cheers!

LIQUID LEGACY: A TIMELESS TRIBUTE TO THE FOUNDERS OF THE UNITED STATES BARTENDERS’ GUILD TO DEBUT MAY 2024

War, Peace, James Dean, and the First 50 Years of the USBG…Through the Eyes of the Bartenders Who Started It All

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA, MARCH 14, 2024 – The United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG) today announces the release of its first book Liquid Legacy: A Timeless Tribute to the Founders of the United States Bartenders’ Guild. The book will initially be available at the shop at usbg.org.

While plenty has been written about yesterday’s and today’s hospitality scene and the operations behind it, few have undertaken a deep dive into the role bartenders play in society and their communities. From neighborhood organizing, labor movements, and equal rights, to late nights, spirits history, and the story of the bar that served James Dean his last drink – a glass of milk, Liquid Legacy is sure to join the canon of must-have volumes for anyone interested in the hospitality industry.

Jose Acona, Co-founder, former President, and Lifetime Member of the United States Bartenders Guild, opens this historic look at the nation’s only guild for bartenders with the admission that “while the rich history of our Guild cannot be traced back in its entirety, this collection is an amazing celebration of what was accomplished in the first 50 years. If you are a bartender, you need to read this book.”

The Guild traces its roots across the Atlantic to early 20th century Europe as the hospitality industry up-ticked with new taverns and places to drink opening at a rapid pace and requiring plenty of employees to staff them. Bar staff gathered regularly to discuss professional matters, leading to the formation of the International Barkeepers Union, in Cologne, Germany, by 3 Germans and 2 Americans. After a sharp downturn over the following 35 years owing to two world wars, a drought in the US, and Prohibition, bartenders got back to legally plying their trade around 1933.

Over the next fifty years, bartenders created and rode drink trends, striving to deliver the very best experience for their guests.

After bartenders in California formed the first American offshoot chapter of the United Kingdom Bartenders’ Guild in 1948, competitions became a proving ground that hatched the next wave of cocktail trends. The book highlights the winners of the USBG’s National Competition, from Charles Berner’s 1950 win with the Bernice, a combination of vodka, Galliano, Pernod, lime and simple syrup, all the way through the 1998 winner, Conga Line, from Jose Rusieco.

The winners, and other competitors, were passionate bartenders, like Egidio “Angus” Angerosa who was a founder of the UKBG and a founding member of the California chapter. This chapter eventually spawned the USBG and is the first US-based stepping stone that brings us to modern bartending legends like Tony Abou-Ganim, Dale DeGroff, Charles Joly, Bridget Albert, Tiffanie Barriere, Martin Cate, Jen Ackrill, Julio Cabrera, and more.

These trailblazers have their own take on historic cocktails, all of which can be found in the pages of Liquid Legacy along with the recipes of the USBG’s National Competition winners from the first 50 years of the Guild.

Follow the USBG through multiple social media channels: IG/FB/TWITTER: @usbg/@TheUSBG/@TheUSBG.

About the United States Bartenders’ Guild

Founded in 1948, the United States Bartenders’ Guild® is the national, member-led not-for-profit association of bartenders and other hospitality professionals that unites and elevates the bar industry through education, community, and advocacy. Through its network, the USBG connects members with peer-to-peer learning, expert instruction, service projects, and skills-based competition, all while fostering a fun and healthy environment and reinforcing the importance of the ‘third place’ in neighborhoods across the country.

Image: Brandi Redd on Unsplash

December 12, 2023by krghospitality krghospitality No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

by David Klemt

Is there vodka in there? Maybe.

As it turns out, the origins of one of the simplest cocktails on the planet—there are just two ingredients in a traditional Screwdriver—are a mystery.

Another interesting note about the Screwdriver: It’s likely a relatively new drink.

If the Screwdriver is an American invention, the earliest most believe it could have been created is the 1920s. That’s when Smirnoff sold the rights to North American distribution to a distiller in the US.

However, it’s possible the cocktail wasn’t invented until some time in the 1940s. Vodka didn’t really become popular among Americans until the ’40s. So, it’s conceivable that the Screwdriver is less than 100 years old.

Still, it’s difficult to believe that someone, somewhere didn’t think to add a splash of vodka to their orange juice in the 1800s. Or that someone didn’t think to “adjust” the taste of the vodka in their glass with a bit of OJ.

Either way, it’s pretty entertaining to know that we don’t have a definitive answer for who created the Screwdriver, where it was first made, and when. When we consider the fact that the recipe calls for just two simple ingredients, maybe it does make sense that we don’t know the who, where, and why. It’s so easy to make that it’s believable multiple people had the same idea around the same time, across the globe.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Drink Donnybrook without checking into some origin theories. So, let’s dive in!

World War II

One theory involves WWII and the US Marine Corps.

It’s quite simple, really. During WWII, stationed overseas, perhaps a few Marines jazzed up their orange juice with a touch of vodka.

Oh, but wait. The Screwdriver may not be attributable to the USMC. It’s possible, according to another theory, that the former US Army Air Forces came up with drink and name when stationed in Ankara, Turkey.

As the predecessor to the Air Force, the USAF may hold claim to the Screwdriver.

If it’s one thing we need, it’s more fuel for the inter-service rivalry between the USMC and USAF.

Journalists

Two publications mentioned the Screwdriver in the 1930s and 1940s.

According to some historians, Journalism Quarterly at least made reference to a drink called the “Smirnoff Screwdriver” in 1938.

If that’s true, the classic cocktail predates WWII by a year. And if that’s true, it’s possible that American marines, airmen, or soldiers spread it around the world.

In 1949, Time magazine mentioned the Screwdriver. According to the writer, the cocktail was the newest drink grabbing attention at the Park Hotel in New York. Apparently, American engineers, Balkan refugees, and Turkish spies loved the drink.

Interestingly, if Time‘s reporting is accurate, it’s possible the supposed Turkish spies frequenting the Park Hotel bar got the name of the drink from American airmen.

Since apparently no bartenders who worked at the Park Hotel appear to have taken credit for it back in the ’40s, it’s unlikely it was created there.

Roughnecks

Okay, so you’re an oil worker. It’s the 1950s and you’re working in the Persian Gulf.

You’re performing back-breaking, dangerous tasks in oil fields. Maybe you need a pick-me-up, and maybe that pick-me-up involves mixing orange juice and vodka together.

But…you don’t have a barspoon. You certainly don’t have a swizzle stick. And you don’t have a coffee stirrer handy.

What you do have is a screwdriver. That screwdriver will definitely stir a drink. It doesn’t take time for this vodka-orange juice concoction to get the name “Screwdriver” because of the stirring utensil.

Well, that’s one theory, anyway.

Two days from now, December 14, you can share all those stories with your guests. Why? Because that’s National Screwdriver Day, a time to celebrate one of the simplest cocktails ever made.

Of course, you and your team can make the Screwdriver your own. Top-shelf vodka, the finest and freshest hand-squeezed orange juice (maybe even blood orange juice), any number of garnishes or rims, a touch of sparkling wine or water… The simpler the drink, the easier it can be to riff on it.

Cheers!

Image: Ryutaro Tsukata on Pexels

Spider Island Rum bottle and rum cocktail

August 30, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

by David Klemt

Like this, but at least four times bigger. And made with more than just one spirit.

With National Rum Punch Day coming up on September 20, I think it’s time we shine the Drink Donnybrook light on another classic, large-format drink.

I argue, and I’m likely not the only one, that the legendary Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch. That is, of course, if the recipe calls for rum.

Like Rum Punch, a Scorpion Bowl is a large-format cocktail. Both are meant for sharing, and both aren’t exactly known for being “weak” drinks.

Speaking of weak, both can also follow the classic Barbadian rhyme we all know: “One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak.”

So, why focus on the Scorpion Bowl specifically on National Rum Punch Day? In part, because it may help you stand out from the crowd. I also argue the name is a bit more attention-grabbing. Additionally, a Scorpion Bowl tells potential guests to gather their friends for a great time.

A Bit of History: Rum Punch

Punch is one of the oldest types of cocktails that we know about. As with myriad classics, it origin proudly wears a shroud of mystery.

However, we can trace written references to punch back to the 17th century. So, we know that punch, as far as a mixed alcohol drink, is at least a few centuries old.

For the most part, British sailors are credited with creating Rum Punch. That means we have to address an unfortunate reality: Rum Punch is, as far as we know, a result of British colonization. As spirits and cocktail historian David Wondrich puts it when talking about punch, “It’s inseparable from the colonial experience.”

Wondrich also addresses the (likely) mythologized belief that “punch” comes from the Indostan word “paunch,” which means “five.” History suggests that East India Company sailors typically made punch with five ingredients: a spirit, sugar, spice, citrus, and water. The sugar trade, pursued by the East India Company, eventually led to rum being the spirit of choice for punch.

In his 2010 book Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl, Wondrich points out that there are recipes with less than five ingredients. And, of course, there are recipes that call for the use of more than five ingredients to make punch. Therefore, we can call the origin of this centuries-old cocktail’s naming convention into question.

A Bit of History: Scorpion Bowl

Similar to Rum Punch, there’s a bit of uncomfortable history when it comes to the Scorpion Bowl.

This large-format drink is a classic tiki cocktail. Over the past few years, there has been pushback for bar owners using tiki iconography, and even the word itself. “Nautical” or “tropical” are the preferences for people who feel that tiki is an offensive appropriation of Pacific Island culture in general, and Maori culture specifically.

Do with that information as you will; it’s just a note on how some people view tiki bars, tiki drinks, and tiki culture. It’s important for bar owners and operators to be aware of terminology and themes that may keep some people away.

That said, the Scorpion—the precursor to the Scorpion Bowl—has an origin as muddled as the leaves, simple, and bourbon in a Mint Julep.

To this day, from what I can find, we don’t know the bartender or bar owner who should get credit for the Scorpion. The belief is that they worked behind the stick at a bar in Hawaii called the Hut. As the story goes, the 1930s recipe includes rum, brandy, orgeat, and citrus, and is a large-format drink.

The legendary Victor J. “Trader Vic” Bergeron stopped by the bar in the 1940s and afterward created his own version, the Scorpion Bowl. Oh, and the best part is that even Trader Vic couldn’t decide on a definitive recipe for this shareable cocktail; he changed his recipe constantly.

Rum Punch vs. Scorpion Bowl

Okay, let’s look at these two literal titans of the cocktail world.

Bothare members of the tiki family of drinks, or, if one prefers, the nautical or tropical family. The usual serve for both is a large-format vessel, though individual servings are possible. Rum plays an important role in both, as do citrus and sugar.

In terms of differences, Rum Punch “traditionally” calls for the use of two rums (a light and a dark). When it comes to a Scorpion Bowl, the recipe calls for a rum and a brandy, and sometimes bartenders throw in gin and wine. In fact, I’d say that in the modern cocktail era, a Scorpion Bowl is less about a traditional recipe and more about a tropical-style drink served in a bowl.

What that tells me is this: the Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch, if it has rum in it.

So, be different this upcoming National Rum Punch Day and mark the holiday with Scorpion Bowls.

Image: Odeani Baker on Pexels

August 25, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Mai Tai

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Mai Tai

by David Klemt

Is there a Mai Tai in there? Maybe…?

There are two big drink holidays coming up in August for your programming pleasure, and the best part is that they both play incredibly well with one another.

One of these holidays you can create a promotion around is National Rum Day, August 16. This year, this spirit-forward holiday falls on a Wednesday. Hey, who couldn’t use a rum drink on Hump Day?

The other is more specific, celebrating a particular drink: August 30, also known as Mai Tai Day. Hey, what do you know—this cocktail holiday also falls on a Wednesday in 2023! It’s almost like these two festive days are exactly two weeks apart or something…

As you’re likely already deducing, these days are related: rum is the base for a Mai Tai. So, creating an LTO around this classic tiki drink gives operators the opportunity to celebrate for two weeks straight, or at least for two weekends. That means it’s also an excellent way to bid August farewell and prepare for the fall.

Controversy!

Scandal! Strife! Squabble! Other words that are synonymous with controversy!

Not only has there been a bit of a debate regarding the creator of the Mai Tai, there has been debate about the day we celebrate this classic cocktail.

Oh, and there’s been plenty of debate over specs. And there will likely be bickering over the correct build forever.

But back to the day we celebrate the Mai Tai. If you Google “National Mai Tai Day” or “Mai Tai Day,” you’ll likely see there’s debate over the correct date.

For a while at least, there were people claiming that National Mai Tai Day is June 30. Well, two crucial sources say that’s flat-out wrong: Trader Vic’s and the City of Oakland, California.

Some people may shrug at that first source, given that there’s still some debate over the drink’s inventor. However, in 2009, Rebecca Kaplan, an at-large councilmember of the city of Oakland, declared August 30 to be Mai Tai Day officially.

Fighting Words

Want to make some cocktail history and bartender nerds heads explode? Just say that Donn Beach, also known as “Don the Beachcomber,” is the father of the Mai Tai.

That should all but guarantee a donnybrook with whomever you target with that statement.

However, unlike the Martini, Piña Colada, and Whiskey Sour, we have a (mostly) definitive answer to the question of who created the Mai Tai.

While there are some who say that Don the Beachcomber created the Mai Tai in 1933, it would be more accurate to say that he created the predecessor of the Mai Tai. Cocktail historians who back Trader Vic as the inventor of this classic would agree.

You see, Don the Beachcomber created a drink called the QB Cooler, and historians say, perhaps generously, that Trader Vic was riffing on Don’s drink when he invented the Mai Tai in 1944. Now, if you really want to kick the donnybrook up a notch, perhaps turn it into a slugfest, see who thinks the Mai Tai tastes like the QB Cooler and which think they taste completely different. Fun times.

Then there’s this: It’s possible we don’t know the exact original recipe for the Mai Tai. Famously—or infamously, if we want to be dramatic—it’s said that Trader Vic never shared his actual specs with anyone. One could argue, then, that nobody has ever had the “real” version if they didn’t drink one made for them by Trader Vic himself. He’ll have passed 30 years ago in October of 2024, so I’m not sure how many people in the industry currently can say Trader Vic made them a Mai Tai personally.

Authentic or Abomination?

Did you read the caption underneath the image at the top of this article? If not, wow—thanks.

If so, you’ll recall that I ask if the drink in the tiki mug in the image contains a Mai Tai. And I answer my own question indicating that, at best, I can only say “maybe.”

Sure, it’s being served in a tiki drinkware, so one could argue that there’s a tiki drink in there. The Mai Tai, as we know, is a tiki classic. The drink is also garnished with mint, which is correct.

But then we look at the rest of the garnish: a raspberry and what appears to be desiccated orange. Oh, and a Mai Tai should be served in a double rocks glass.

Of course, bartenders around the world serve cocktails in drinkware that deviates from the “right” vessel. However, the proper garnish is mint and a lime wheel…to the best of our knowledge.

Ultimately, guests decide with their dollars whether they believe a bar makes them the “right” Mai Tai. You and your bar team will need to dial in a signature version if you want your bar to be known for its Mai Tai, and perhaps come up with a great riff or two.

The Original…Maybe

The original recipe, cocktail historians and drink nerds believe, is:

1 oz. Light rum
1 oz. Dark rum
Fresh lime juice (keep half of the squeezed lime’s shell)
0.5 oz. Orange curaçao
0.25 oz. Orgeat
0.25 oz. Simple syrup
1 cup Crushed ice
Fresh mint sprig to garnish
Lime wheel to garnish

Fill a shaker with crushed ice and add the light rum, lime juice, curaçao, simple, and orgeat. In other words, hold back the dark rum! Shake for a few seconds and pour the contents into a double rocks glass. If you want to be fancy, add fresh crushed ice to the double rocks glass and strain the shaker into it. Float the dark rum, then garnish and serve.

Technically, a bartender should use J. Wray & Nephew rum…but a bottle, if one can be found, goes for at least $50,000 last I checked. Bartenders should also refrain from adding pineapple juice, orange juice, or grapefruit juice. And they shouldn’t garnish with cherries or pineapple wedges. But, here we are; all of those things and more happen.

Oh, there are also tequila, mezcal, amaro, and whiskey versions, plus riffs made with avocado and variants that call for an array of bitters. What you do with this information is up to you and your bar team.

Image: Andrea Piacquadio on Pexels

July 31, 2023by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Whiskey Sour

by David Klemt

If I were to say that the Whiskey Sour is a cocktail with an uncertain and disputable origin, would you find that statement surprising?

Regular readers of KRG Hospitality articles probably won’t think that’s shocking. After all, it’s well known at this point that I enjoy diving into cocktails with “hazy” histories.

For example, there’s the Martini, the Mint Julep, and the Margarita. I guess if you want to ensure it causes endless debate, you should make certain your cocktail’s name begins with the letter “M.”

Dial “M” for “moot,” as it were.

One thing we can state with certainty is that the Whiskey Sour is a true classic cocktail. We can also state with conviction that it will always boast decades of popularity amongst drinkers, particularly in America.

This particular sour cocktail may not be among the top ten or 20 most-popular drinks, but it was at one point. One can make the argument that the Whiskey Sour was among the most popular for a century.

So popular, in fact, that we dedicate an entire day to it. We celebrate the Whiskey Sour on National Whiskey Sour Day, August 25. This year, we honor this classic on a Friday.

“M” is for “Mystery”

A ubiquitous tipple for a century? Looking into what we know of the Whiskey Sour’s history, yes.

That may seem like a bold claim. However, it’s possible its time in the spotlight boasts more than 100 years.

This comes down to the Whiskey Sour’s creation and when it became so popular. Interestingly, it appears historians can’t agree on when it was first mentioned.

For example, some say the recipe for the Whiskey Sour first showed up in print in Jerry Thomas’ The Bar-Tenders Guide. This legendary tome was first published in 1862. Then there are those who say the cocktail first appeared in 1870 in the Waukesha Plaindealer, a Wisconsin newspaper.

Of course, there’s a technicality. In The Bar-Tenders Guide, the 1862 print specifically mentions the Brandy Sour, the Gin Sour, and a rum sour called the Santa Cruz.

Either way, we can assume with confidence that the cocktail was known to at least a handful of bartenders and bar guests before the recipe was published in 1862. Then we can add this quote from David Wondrich about just how important the Whiskey Sour has been to American bargoers:

“From roughly the 1860s to the 1960s, the Sour, and particularly its whiskey incarnation, was one of the cardinal points of American drinking, and one of the few drinks that could come near to slugging it out with the vast tribe of cocktails in terms of day-in, day-out popularity.”

If we trust Wondrich’s understanding of cocktail, spirits, and bar history—and I think it’s safe to say we absolutely can—there’s at least a century’s worth of human history where at least Americans couldn’t seem to enjoy enough Whiskey Sours.

Prepare Your LTOs

As a member of the Sour Family of cocktails, the Whiskey Sour makes it easy to build an LTO menu for National Whiskey Sour Day.

First, of course, there’s the standard Whiskey Sour recipe: two ounces whiskey, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, and a small egg white (optional).

Then there’s one of my favorite cocktails, the Penicillin: two ounces blended Scotch, 3/4-ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce honey-ginger syrup, and 1/4-ounce Laphroaig 10 or other Islay Scotch (fl0at).

Finally, to add a third LTO because people like things in threes, there’s the New York or Continental or Southern Whiskey Sour: two ounces rye or bourbon, one ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4-ounce simple syrup, one small egg white (optional), and 1/2-ounce red wine (float).

Of course, there are other riffs on the Whiskey Sour (the Gold Rush, for example) you can include on your LTO menu.

There you have it: another cocktail whose creator will likely never get full credit for their influential invention. Cheers to this mystery person!

Image: Ambitious Studio* – Rick Barrett on Unsplash

September 5, 2022by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

5 Books to Read this Month: September 2022

5 Books to Read this Month: September 2022

by David Klemt

This month’s engaging and informative book selections will help you develop next-level leadership skills and dial in your drink menu.

To review August’s book recommendations, click here.

Let’s jump in!

Your Restaurant Culture Sucks!: Stop surviving. Start thriving. Escape mediocrity

Donald Burns, the Restaurant Coach and friend of KRG Hospitality, completes his Your Restaurant Sucks! trilogy. For the third book in the self-improvement and hospitality industry leadership series, Burns tackles culture.

In Your Restaurant Culture Sucks!, Burns helps owners, operators, and leadership team members understand the importance of workplace and company culture. Instead of complaining that “nobody wants to work anymore,” look inside and find out why perhaps nobody wants to work for you. That kind of honesty helps implement real change, change that sets you apart and improves recruitment, hiring, and retention.

“All restaurants can buy from the same vendors and hire from the same labor pool. What separates the good, from the great to the outstanding is culture!”

Subtract

Sometimes changing our outlook and improving our leadership skills is about streamlining.

“We pile on ‘to-dos’ but don’t consider ‘stop-doings.’ We create incentives for good behavior, but don’t get rid of obstacles to it. We collect new-and-improved ideas, but don’t prune the outdated ones. Every day, across challenges big and small, we neglect a basic way to make things better: we don’t subtract.”

With Subtract, Leidy Klotz explains how changing how we approach solutions can be life changing. Maybe we need to stop adding and start subtracting to improve our strategies.

Cure: New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ’Em from the Award-Winning Bar

If you travel to New Orleans and you’re in this industry, you probably make sure to include Cure on your itinerary. For more than a decade this 2018 James Beard Award winner (Outstanding Bar Program) has been integral to the city’s craft cocktail scene.

Whether you’re after a deceptively simple beer and shot or a cocktail made with a rare, allocated bourbon, Cure is there to elevate your French Quarter visit. And soon you’ll be able to bring Cure home with you, and to your restaurant or bar as well. Available now for preorder, Cure includes 100 cocktail recipes that tell the tale of NOLA from past, present, and future.

Craft Beer Design: The Design, Illustration and Branding of Contemporary Breweries

Anyone who pauses to consider beer can design knows that it’s becoming nearly as important as the liquid. With thousands of breweries all over the US alone, how does a brewer stand out? How does a small, independent craft brewer grab a potential new customer’s attention in a sea of options? In part, through their can designs. Of course the beer itself is crucial and the most important element. However, a consumer has to be motivated to try a beer before they learn how good it tastes.

Craft Beer Design dives deep into craft beer design, featuring real-world examples and interviews with the designers themselves.

Think Again: The Power of Knowing What You Don’t Know

Curiosity keeps us learning. The pursuit of knowledge keeps us sharp. Learning helps us improve ourselves, our leadership, and our operations. The belief that we’ve learned all there is to know, however, prevents us from learning to our own detriment.

Much like Subtract teaches us how to remove rather than add, Think Again proposes a new approach: unlearning and rethinking. Why do we get defensive when we’re wrong? Why are we so afraid of challenges to long-held beliefs? Admitting when we’re wrong and seeking facts is a strength, not a weakness.

Image: Mikołaj on Unsplash