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by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champs

French Cocktail Culture: More than Champagne

by David Klemt

An AI-generated, street-style image of a red and a blue cocktail crossed at the glass stems, against a blue, white, and red graffiti background

That’s some interesting stemware…and the cocktail on the right is an interesting color.

The French have contributed more than Champagne, Cognac, Armagnac, Grand Marnier, and Cointreau to global cocktail culture.

There at least a dozen cocktails that originate from France. And, of course, there are even more from one of the most French-influenced cities in the US, New Orleans.

Since Bastille Day is almost upon us I want to share ten cocktail recipes with origin stories we can trace back to France. Now, if celebrating Bastille Day isn’t your thing, you can celebrate National Grand Marnier Day instead.

Basically, if a cocktail below calls for orange liqueur, you and your bar team can use Grand Marnier. But…allow me to nerd out for a moment about orange liqueur and France.

Orange Liqueur vs. Triple Sec vs. Orange Curaçao

As we’re taught early on, all squares are rectangles (and rhombuses). However, not all rectangles (or rhombuses) are squares. Why am I bringing up geometric shapes in an article about cocktails?

Think of orange liqueur as a rectangle or rhombus. All orange curaçaos and triple secs can be considered orange liqueurs, but not all orange liqueurs are triple secs or orange curaçaos, if we want to be pedantic.

Generally speaking, triple sec is French orange liqueur. Cointreau, as an example, is a triple sec. It’s also an orange liqueur, and one can argue it’s an orange curaçao, although it isn’t made with Lahara orange. Grand Marnier is French but is not a triple sec. Why not? Because Grand Marnier is triple sec blended with Cognac. Pedantry strikes again!

Why does this matter? When choosing your orange liqueur, keep in mind that they don’t all taste the same. Their unique flavors will have an impact on a given cocktail. So, if you were to build a Sidecar with Grand Marnier rather than Cointreau, they’d taste noticeably different. This is, in part, due to the fact that the Sidecar is a Cognac recipe, and Grand Marnier is made with Cognac.

Thank you for indulging me there. Feel free to share that knowledge with your guests, but stop if their eyes start glazing over.

Consider featuring any of the cocktail recipes below this weekend. Sunday, July 14, is Bastille Day, or National Grand Marnier Day, if you prefer. Cheers!

French 75

This classic’s original form can be tracked to the 1910s and the famous New York Bar, located in Paris. Eventually, the venue would become Harry’s New York Bar, named for proprietor, bartender, and writer Harry MacElhone.

By the 1920s, the “final form” of the French 75 we all know and love would come into existence. However, people are still tweaking this classic’s build.

For the traditionalists out there, the French 75 is easy to make: one part gin, and a half-part each of lemon juice and simple syrup, topped with three parts sparkling wine. Don’t forget the lemon twist to garnish!

Boulevardier

As was the case with so many others during the modern Cocktail Revivaland the subsequent Negroni crazethe Boulevardier was my go-to cocktail for quite some time. Interestingly, this cocktail supposedly never “took” until the 2000s.

Like the French 75, the Boulevardier can be traced to Harry’s New York Bar and 1920s Paris. However, the credit for this one goes to a magazine publisher, according to Harry himself.

For this recipe, pretend you’re making a Negroni…but swap out the gin for bourbon or rye. Oh, and forget the 1:1:1 Negroni ratio; this isn’t an equal parts situation. Instead, combine one part Campari with one part sweet vermouth, but bump up the whiskey to one-and-one-quarter parts.

Old Pal

The Old Pal is thought to be a spin on the Boulevardier by that cocktail’s creator, Harry MacElhone, at his bar in Paris.

Whereas the Boulevardier is considered by someone a whiskey-based riff on the Negroni, that’s not an equal-parts build. This, however, is.

Stir equal parts rye whiskey, Campari, and dry vermouth in a mixing glass with ice. Then, strain it into a chilled coupe. Some modern recipes call for doubling the rye, so experimentation is in order.

Sidecar

Okay, let’s start a fight: the Sidecar was created at the Ritz Paris, in Paris, in the 1920s. Why should that cause a kerfuffle? Well, the drink could also be a Pat MacGarry creation, invented in London.

Making this even more contentious is that Harry (yes, of Harry’s New York Bar) went from crediting MacGarry to claiming credit himself. Oh, and sources in both Paris and London claim the same story to be true: a guest arrived at their bar on a motorcycle, and the bartender at the time came up with this drink for said guest.

But wait, il y a plus! Living legend Dale DeGroff has stated that he believes the name references a bonus shot. This is the amount of cocktail left over after shaking and straining the drink, and served on the side in a shot glass.

Regardless of the true story, add three-quarters of an ounce each orange liqueur and lemon juice, then double that amount of Cognac. Prep a coupe with a sugar rim, shake the mixture, strain it into the glass, and garnish with an orange twist.

Between the Sheets

Are you getting the impression that we should just credit with Harry MacElhone with the creation of every drink originating from Paris? I won’t blame you if you are, since he’s credited with Between the Sheets as well. Is he actually the creator? Maybe I’ll address that in a future Drink Donnybrook.

To build this cocktail, pretend you’re making a Sidecar. Then, pick up a bottle of rum. This is an equal parts cocktail, calling for three-quarters of a part of Cognac, rum, and orange liqueur, and a quarter-part of lemon juice.

White Lady

This MacElhone creation has an interesting history. As the story goes, he created the original version in London in the late 1910s. He served it in its precursor form, then overhauled the recipe in Paris. At his bar. In the 1920s. Déjà vu, anyone?

And what an overhaul the recipe underwent. The original White Lady was a blend of crème de menthe, triple sec, and lemon juice. However, MacElhone eschewed crème de menthe in Paris, replacing it with gin. Additionally, he added an egg white and a dry shake.

Mimosa

Surely, the simple two-ingredient Mimosa must have a clear origin, right? Well…maybe.

Some say the Mimosa was created at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in the mid-1920s. Others believe it was invented in the 1930s. Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if the drink was first crafted in the 1910s or earlier by someone who simply wanted to toss some sparkling wine into their orange juice.

Ritz bartender Frank Meier may be the drink’s creator. However, people who dispute this point to his 1936 book The Artistry of Mixing Drinks. Recipes with Meier’s initials inside of a diamond next to recipes marked this as his creations. No such symbol appears next to the Mimosa.

If you need this complex recipe, it’s two ounces of chilled orange juice, topped with sparkling wine. I prefer Crémant to Champagne, but do whatever works best. In fact, operators can upsell the bubbles for their signature Mimosas.

Death in the Afternoon

I’m hesitant to include this cocktail, for a couple of reasons. One, I’m not sure it was created in France. There’s reason to believe it was invented as an homage to France, but outside of the country.

Second, Ernest Hemingway is given the credit as its creator. However, Hemingway historians have been dubious of claims involving the author and his relationship to certain drinks and bars.

That said, Hemingway purportedly came up with this drink while spending time in France in the 1920s. Add one-and-a-half parts absinthe to a coupe, then add three times that amount of chilled Champagne until the mixture is “milky” in appearance. Next, I assume, comes a nap.

Yellow

How about a modern classic? Yellow is a signature cocktail at Cravan, owned by restaurateur, bartender, and historian Franck Audoux.

If you’re visiting Paris, the original Cravan location is in the 16th arrondissement of the capital city. However, a second location, the result of a partnership between Audoux and Moët Hennessy, is in the 6th arrondissement. If you’re curious, there are 20 arrondissements in Paris.

Audoux, again, a historian, created the Yellow as an homage to a cocktail said to have been popular in the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera: gin, Suze and Yellow Chartreuse. To make Audoux’s Yellow, add ice to a shaker, along with equal parts London Dry gin, Suze, Yellow Chartreuse, and lemon juice. Shake, then double strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.

L’Expérience 1

Hey, speaking of modern classics… Back in 2007, Experimental Group opened its first venue in Paris, Experimental Cocktail Club. Seventeen years later, the group has built an empire spanning eleven cities all over the world.

Moreover, Experimental Group operates not just bars but restaurants, clubs, and hotels. That said, while the group has grown, they haven’t forgotten their roots. L’Experience 1 appeared on the menu at their first-ever venue, and it remains their signature cocktail.

To make this modern drink, chill a Martini glass. Add three-quarters of a part each of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and elderflower liqueur, plus one-and-three-quarter parts of premium or super-premium vodka to a cocktail shaker. Before adding ice, add a basil leaf and one hand-crushed blade of lemongrass to the shaker as well. Shake, strain into the prepared glass, and garnish with a lemongrass leaf.

Santé!

AI image generator: Microsoft Designer

Bar, Pub, Nightclub, Nightlife, Feasibility Study

by David Klemt David Klemt No Comments

7 Great Books About Bourbon

7 Great Books About Bourbon

by David Klemt

Shot of bourbon on wood background

Our onslaught of Bourbon Heritage Month content continues with a roundup of great reads that tell the story of bourbon.

Sure, it’s awesome to enjoy a bourbon with friends. But what about pouring a dram of your favorite bourbon while reading about bourbon?

Come on—you know that sounds fantastic.

So, grab one or more of these books, pair them with a beautiful bourbon, and expand your whiskey knowledge.

Buffalo, Barrels, & Bourbon

This brand-new bourbon book releases today on Amazon. In Buffalo, Barrels, & Bourbon, author F. Paul Pacult tells the story of the Buffalo Trace Distillery. The history of the most-awarded distillery in the world includes the American Revolutionary War, Prohibition, the Great Depression, and it’s still going strong.

The Bourbon Bible

Author Eric Zandona writes for Distiller Magazine and is the director of spirits information at American Distilling Institute. Zandona dives deep into bourbon in The Bourbon Bible, sharing notes on 100 of the world’s best expressions along with 20 classic bourbon cocktail recipes.

Kentucky Bourbon Country

We all know that while a luxury, traveling is the best way to understand our world. Wine lovers have an array of bucket-list destinations, such as Piedmont, Tuscany, Bordeaux, and the Napa Valley. Scotch devotees have Scotland. And bourbon fans have Kentucky. Author Susan Reigler reveals everything bourbon lovers need to know about traveling to Kentucky to learn about their favorite spirit. All that will be left after reading the third edition of Kentucky Bourbon Country is planning your own trip and booking your flights.

Pappyland

It’s hard to come up with any bourbon label more well known, sought after, argued about, and in some cases reviled, than Pappy Van Winkle. Wright Thompson tells the story not only of the (in)famous label and multi-thousand-dollar bottles but also of the family behind it all. Love it or hate it, you need to read Pappyland for the full story.

Bourbon Empire

Reid Mitenbuler tells the real story of the business of bourbon in Bourbon Empire. And let me tell you, it’s no boring essay on the ins and outs of supply and demand, P&L statements, distribution, and on- and off-premise consumerism. Rather, Mitenbuler reveals a history rife with underhanded political dealings, organized crime, “questionable” business practices, bootlegging, and much more intrigue.

Bourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey

Even people with only a passing familiarity with bourbon probably know the name Fred Minnick. The award-winning author sets out to learn just who should be given the credit for creating bourbon in Bourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey, winner of the 2017 Spirited Award for Best New Spirits Book.

Bourbon Curious

Fred Minnick returns with Bourbon Curious to convert his Kentucky Derby Museum classes into book form. Interestingly, this tasting guide is segmented into what Minnick identifies as the four main bourbon flavor profiles: grain, nutmeg, caramel, and cinnamon. Want to know how those profiles dominate bourbon? Get the book.

Image: phil cruz on Unsplash

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