Tiki cocktail | KRG Hospitality

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Rum Punch

by David Klemt

Spider Island Rum bottle and rum cocktail

Like this, but at least four times bigger. And made with more than just one spirit.

With National Rum Punch Day coming up on September 20, I think it’s time we shine the Drink Donnybrook light on another classic, large-format drink.

I argue, and I’m likely not the only one, that the legendary Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch. That is, of course, if the recipe calls for rum.

Like Rum Punch, a Scorpion Bowl is a large-format cocktail. Both are meant for sharing, and both aren’t exactly known for being “weak” drinks.

Speaking of weak, both can also follow the classic Barbadian rhyme we all know: “One of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of weak.”

So, why focus on the Scorpion Bowl specifically on National Rum Punch Day? In part, because it may help you stand out from the crowd. I also argue the name is a bit more attention-grabbing. Additionally, a Scorpion Bowl tells potential guests to gather their friends for a great time.

A Bit of History: Rum Punch

Punch is one of the oldest types of cocktails that we know about. As with myriad classics, it origin proudly wears a shroud of mystery.

However, we can trace written references to punch back to the 17th century. So, we know that punch, as far as a mixed alcohol drink, is at least a few centuries old.

For the most part, British sailors are credited with creating Rum Punch. That means we have to address an unfortunate reality: Rum Punch is, as far as we know, a result of British colonization. As spirits and cocktail historian David Wondrich puts it when talking about punch, “It’s inseparable from the colonial experience.”

Wondrich also addresses the (likely) mythologized belief that “punch” comes from the Indostan word “paunch,” which means “five.” History suggests that East India Company sailors typically made punch with five ingredients: a spirit, sugar, spice, citrus, and water. The sugar trade, pursued by the East India Company, eventually led to rum being the spirit of choice for punch.

In his 2010 book Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl, Wondrich points out that there are recipes with less than five ingredients. And, of course, there are recipes that call for the use of more than five ingredients to make punch. Therefore, we can call the origin of this centuries-old cocktail’s naming convention into question.

A Bit of History: Scorpion Bowl

Similar to Rum Punch, there’s a bit of uncomfortable history when it comes to the Scorpion Bowl.

This large-format drink is a classic tiki cocktail. Over the past few years, there has been pushback for bar owners using tiki iconography, and even the word itself. “Nautical” or “tropical” are the preferences for people who feel that tiki is an offensive appropriation of Pacific Island culture in general, and Maori culture specifically.

Do with that information as you will; it’s just a note on how some people view tiki bars, tiki drinks, and tiki culture. It’s important for bar owners and operators to be aware of terminology and themes that may keep some people away.

That said, the Scorpion—the precursor to the Scorpion Bowl—has an origin as muddled as the leaves, simple, and bourbon in a Mint Julep.

To this day, from what I can find, we don’t know the bartender or bar owner who should get credit for the Scorpion. The belief is that they worked behind the stick at a bar in Hawaii called the Hut. As the story goes, the 1930s recipe includes rum, brandy, orgeat, and citrus, and is a large-format drink.

The legendary Victor J. “Trader Vic” Bergeron stopped by the bar in the 1940s and afterward created his own version, the Scorpion Bowl. Oh, and the best part is that even Trader Vic couldn’t decide on a definitive recipe for this shareable cocktail; he changed his recipe constantly.

Rum Punch vs. Scorpion Bowl

Okay, let’s look at these two literal titans of the cocktail world.

Bothare members of the tiki family of drinks, or, if one prefers, the nautical or tropical family. The usual serve for both is a large-format vessel, though individual servings are possible. Rum plays an important role in both, as do citrus and sugar.

In terms of differences, Rum Punch “traditionally” calls for the use of two rums (a light and a dark). When it comes to a Scorpion Bowl, the recipe calls for a rum and a brandy, and sometimes bartenders throw in gin and wine. In fact, I’d say that in the modern cocktail era, a Scorpion Bowl is less about a traditional recipe and more about a tropical-style drink served in a bowl.

What that tells me is this: the Scorpion Bowl is a Rum Punch, if it has rum in it.

So, be different this upcoming National Rum Punch Day and mark the holiday with Scorpion Bowls.

Image: Odeani Baker on Pexels

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Piña Colada

by David Klemt

Temperatures are rising and there are still about six weeks of summer left, so let’s take a look at a refreshing warm-weather hero: the Piña Colada.

So far we’ve looked at the Martini and Whiskey Sour. Now, it’s another classic’s turn in the Drink Donnybrook spotlight.

One could claim that the Piña Colada is one of the original “lost cocktails.” Of course, that depends on which origin story turns out to be true.

If the Piña Colada dates back to the first quarter of the 19th century, then it’s a pirate cocktail once lost to the winds of time. Puerto Rican pirate Roberto Cofresí, also known as El Pirata Cofresí, supposedly served his crews a drink consisting of rum, coconut, and pineapple. Sounds like a Piña Colada to me.

The reason I said it could be considered an original lost cocktail is that Cofresí died in 1825. Disputed history says his drink recipe disappeared with his death.

However, the Piña Colada may have far less metal roots than being invented by a famous pirate. Puerto Rico’s official drink may have simply been created by a bartender.

One Drink, Three Bartenders

Ramón “Monchito” Marrero may have created the Piña Colada while at the helm of the Beachcomber Bar at the Caribe Hilton in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, in 1952. Or maybe it was 1954.

It’s almost like bartenders should be able to more easily protect their intellectual properties so we can identify their cocktails’ true origins.

Forgive the digression. You’ll be shocked—shocked, I say—to learn that another bartender may have created the Piña Colada. During the same year. At the same hotel.

That bartender is Ricardo García, and the claim is that he invented the drink during a coconut shortage.

Would it surprise you to learn that a third bartender working in Old San Juan also claimed credit for the Piña Colada? Ramón Portas Mignot said he came up with this tropical classic in 1963 at Barrachina. The restaurant and bar’s ownership apparently agreed, because they installed a plaque at the front door backing Mignot’s claim.

Hey, if it has a plaque, it must be true; they don’t just give those to anyone. Oh, and you can check out that plaque for yourself: Barrachina still exists and enjoys a 4.5 rating from over 4,100 Google reviews.

A Rough Patch

Unfortunately, once anointed “the world’s most famous drink,” the Piña Colada had a rough, well, several decades.

In the 1970s, the drink’s quality plunged and fell out of favor with cocktailians. Any technique for building the nautical libation went down the bar sink. It was easier and cheaper to just make Piña Coladas with premade mixes and cheap rum.

Add to that the trend toward serving bastardized versions in oversized glassware at mediocre hotel pools, tourist trap hotel bars, weird supper clubs nowhere near a beach, and on cruise ships and you can see why cocktail connoisseurs snubbed this classic.

The Cocktail Revolution of the 2000s helped restore the Piña Colada’s dignity and popularity. It may not find itself in as much demand as the Margarita or Daiquiri, but it’s no longer missing from serious cocktail programs.

So raise a Hurricane—or a cocktail glass or coupe—to the Piña Colada today. ¡Salud!

Recipe

2 ounces Light rum
1 ½ ounces Cream of coconut
1 ½ ounces Pineapple juice
½ ounce Freshly squeezed lime juice
Pineapple leaf and pineapple wedge for garnish

For a more traditional preparation, fill a Hurricane glass with ice and set to the side. Add the liquid ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake for at least 30 seconds. Toss the ice from the Hurricane glass and replace with pebble ice. Strain cocktail into glass and garnish.

Now, you don’t need to serve a Piña Colada in a Hurricane. Plenty of bars and restaurants send them across the bar in coupes or other cocktails glasses, sans garnish. Speaking of garnishing this classic, some people expect whipped cream, a lime wedge or wheel, a cherry, or even all three. You’ll see bartenders serve them with sugar rims and umbrellas. Like me, you’ve probably also seen them served with an orange wheel.

Then there are the frozen Piña Coladas and fruit Piña Coladas, versions made with various styles of rum… People just can’t seem to resist putting their stamp on this classic.

Dealer’s choice, I suppose, or you can ask guests what preparation and garnish they prefer. Or, and this is the approach I recommend, nail down your bar’s signature Piña Colada, including garnish (or none).

Image: Kike Salazar N on Unsplash