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Drink Donnybrook: Brandy Alexander

Drink Donnybrook: Brandy Alexander

by David Klemt

Bartender straining cocktail into glass

The classic Brandy Alexander cocktail, which we celebrate at the end of this month, is slowly approaching a century since its first appearance.

That is, of course, if we go solely by the first time this creamy cocktail’s recipe was printed in a book. For the curious, the book is Cafe Royal Cocktail Book by William J. Tarling. And that book was first published in 1937. Notably, Tarling’s book was published by the United Kingdom Bartenders Guild.

Now, since you’re reading this you know this is a new entry in the Drink Donnybrook series. So, you know that the Brandy Alexander’s history is unclear. You also know, if this isn’t you’re first time reading one of these articles, that I love a cocktail with a shadowy origin.

We do know, however, that the Brandy Alexander belongs to the Duos and Trios cocktail family. Per Gaz Regan, a Duo is a base spirit plus a liqueur. Add a cream or cream liqueur to the Duo and you get a Trio, which describes the Brandy Alexander.

Let’s dive into this creamy cocktail’s creation.

Firsts

The Brandy Alexander is itself a riff on a cocktail that predates its appearance in Cafe Royal Cocktail Book by twenty years.

First, there was the Alexander. This predecessor is made with gin. According to my deep dive, the gin-based recipe first appeared in Recipes For Mixed Drinks by Hugo Ensslin in 1917.

As time went on and more cocktail recipe books were published, something interesting happened. The gin-based recipe would commonly be referred to as Alexander #1, or the first recipe. As you may have already guessed, the brandy version would be listed as Alexander #2.

Per Tomas Curras, cocktail books seem to have changed the naming convention to Alexander and Brandy Alexander some time in the 1970s.

Of the two recipes, it appears that the Brandy Alexander is the more popular. So, while it didn’t show up first, it has taken first place (allegedly) among the Alexander cocktails.

But there’s another first within the Alexander lore, as you’ll see below.

Who Done It?

Prepare to have your mind blown: We don’t know.

At best, we think we know the creator of the gin Alexander, a.k.a. Alexander #1. I say “think” because better cocktail historians than I can’t say for certain that we know the Alexander’s creator.

However, the assumption does make a great deal of sense. It’s believed that Troy Alexander—check out that surname—invented what could be the eponymous cocktail in New York City at a restaurant called Rector’s.

This would place the first Alexander’s creation some time between 1899 and 1918, the years Rector’s was in operation. Rector’s, by the way, was the first restaurant in NYC to feature a revolving door.

Alexander created the cocktail for a party celebrating a successful ad campaign featuring the fictitious character Phoebe Snow. Snow, white…white cocktail.

But who was the first person to swap out the gin for brandy in the Alexander? It’s feasible that it was Troy Alexander, of course. If it wasn’t him, well…we don’t know who decided to substitute brandy for gin.

There’s more mystery surrounding the drink’s name, as well. Some say the Brandy Alexander is a nod to Russian tsar Alexander II. Or perhaps it honors Princess Victoria Alexandra Alice Mary. The classic could also pay homage to critic Alexander Woollcott (a claim he made himself) or Grover Cleveland Alexander, pitcher for the Philadelphia Phillies from 1911 to 1917.

So, there you have it: a mystery to share with your guests when they come to your bar or restaurant for your Brandy Alexander Day promotion on January 31. Cheers!

The Recipe

Interestingly, there’s some room to play with this classic. Some people follow the equal parts rule, some add a bit more brandy than creme de cacao or cocoa. Others double the amount of brandy.

You and your bar team should play with the measurements to create your signature take on the Brandy Alexander.

At any rate, fill a shaker with ice then add one, one-and-a-half, or two ounces of brandy, one ounce of the creme de cacao of your choice, and one ounce of cream. Shake until well chilled, then strain into cocktail glass or coupe. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.

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Irish Distilleries You Need to Know

Irish Distilleries You Need to Know in 2024

by David Klemt

7-Year-Old Single Malt Mizunara Finish in Wicklow, Ireland

On Thursday, January 25, we honor a simple but delicious cocktail that can trace its roots back to Europe and the middle of the 19th century.

A bartender can serve this drink hot, chilled, or iced. And until somewhat recently, a bartender usually makes this cocktail with a spirit from one of just a few producers.

I’m talking about the venerable Irish Coffee.

Now, this could make for an interesting Drink Donnybrook. However, I’m going to focus on shining a spotlight on some Irish distilleries and labels you and your bar team should have on your radar.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with making an Irish Coffee with one of the usual suspects. Indeed, it’s perfectly acceptable—traditional, even—to make yours with Jameson, Bushmills, Tullamore Dew, Redbreast, or Powers.

But while there’s nothing wrong with playing to expectations, making the choice to offer something different can set you, your team, and your venue apart.

As our buddy Chef Brian Duffy says, operators can charge premium menu prices only if they innovate. Pairing a lesser-known Irish whiskey with a local coffee roaster’s coffee would be an innovation that falls in line with Chef Duffy’s approach to pricing.

There are other ways to build an Irish Coffee as a premium cocktail. The quality of the whipped cream, for instance, is a consideration. For example, whipping the cream in front of guests is a premium touch.

Not the Usual Suspects

A lot is going on with Irish distilleries. We have more choice than we’ve had in several decades.

Check these Irish distilleries out today:

Several of these distilleries also produce other spirits, such as gin and vodka. And, of course, not every distillery produces spirits that are available to the US and Canada, currently.

Still, it’s good to be aware of these distilleries and their brands so we can encourage suppliers to bring them to North America and beyond.

To learn more about Glendalough Distillery in particular, please listen to the Bar Hacks podcast episode below:

Hot Coffee

Let’s assume you’re going to with piping hot coffee, not serve your Irish Coffee on ice or frozen.

You’re going to want to ensure your glassware is heat resistant, of course. Let’s not burn the hands of our guests.

To that heat-resistant glassware, add one-and-a-half to two ounces of Irish whiskey. Next, add two to four teaspoons of sugar, or a half- to two-thirds-ounce of demerara syrup. Add three to four ounces of hot coffee, then top with quality whipped cream. When I say add the cream, I mean an inch or so, not just a wee bit.

You’ll notice that I’m using ranges of measurements. This is because you’re going to want to play around with your Irish Coffee to make it one of your signatures. That includes selecting your sweetener, whether that translates to brown sugar, syrup, or something else.

Now, if you’re after something different, check out the Frozen Irish Coffee from Erin Rose in New Orleans, or the recipe for the Dead Rabbit‘s Irish Coffee.

Cheers!

Image: Glendalough Distillery

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Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

Drink Donnybrook: Let’s Talk Screwdriver

by David Klemt

Orange cocktail, like a Screwdriver

Is there vodka in there? Maybe.

As it turns out, the origins of one of the simplest cocktails on the planet—there are just two ingredients in a traditional Screwdriver—are a mystery.

Another interesting note about the Screwdriver: It’s likely a relatively new drink.

If the Screwdriver is an American invention, the earliest most believe it could have been created is the 1920s. That’s when Smirnoff sold the rights to North American distribution to a distiller in the US.

However, it’s possible the cocktail wasn’t invented until some time in the 1940s. Vodka didn’t really become popular among Americans until the ’40s. So, it’s conceivable that the Screwdriver is less than 100 years old.

Still, it’s difficult to believe that someone, somewhere didn’t think to add a splash of vodka to their orange juice in the 1800s. Or that someone didn’t think to “adjust” the taste of the vodka in their glass with a bit of OJ.

Either way, it’s pretty entertaining to know that we don’t have a definitive answer for who created the Screwdriver, where it was first made, and when. When we consider the fact that the recipe calls for just two simple ingredients, maybe it does make sense that we don’t know the who, where, and why. It’s so easy to make that it’s believable multiple people had the same idea around the same time, across the globe.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Drink Donnybrook without checking into some origin theories. So, let’s dive in!

World War II

One theory involves WWII and the US Marine Corps.

It’s quite simple, really. During WWII, stationed overseas, perhaps a few Marines jazzed up their orange juice with a touch of vodka.

Oh, but wait. The Screwdriver may not be attributable to the USMC. It’s possible, according to another theory, that the former US Army Air Forces came up with drink and name when stationed in Ankara, Turkey.

As the predecessor to the Air Force, the USAF may hold claim to the Screwdriver.

If it’s one thing we need, it’s more fuel for the inter-service rivalry between the USMC and USAF.

Journalists

Two publications mentioned the Screwdriver in the 1930s and 1940s.

According to some historians, Journalism Quarterly at least made reference to a drink called the “Smirnoff Screwdriver” in 1938.

If that’s true, the classic cocktail predates WWII by a year. And if that’s true, it’s possible that American marines, airmen, or soldiers spread it around the world.

In 1949, Time magazine mentioned the Screwdriver. According to the writer, the cocktail was the newest drink grabbing attention at the Park Hotel in New York. Apparently, American engineers, Balkan refugees, and Turkish spies loved the drink.

Interestingly, if Time‘s reporting is accurate, it’s possible the supposed Turkish spies frequenting the Park Hotel bar got the name of the drink from American airmen.

Since apparently no bartenders who worked at the Park Hotel appear to have taken credit for it back in the ’40s, it’s unlikely it was created there.

Roughnecks

Okay, so you’re an oil worker. It’s the 1950s and you’re working in the Persian Gulf.

You’re performing back-breaking, dangerous tasks in oil fields. Maybe you need a pick-me-up, and maybe that pick-me-up involves mixing orange juice and vodka together.

But…you don’t have a barspoon. You certainly don’t have a swizzle stick. And you don’t have a coffee stirrer handy.

What you do have is a screwdriver. That screwdriver will definitely stir a drink. It doesn’t take time for this vodka-orange juice concoction to get the name “Screwdriver” because of the stirring utensil.

Well, that’s one theory, anyway.

Two days from now, December 14, you can share all those stories with your guests. Why? Because that’s National Screwdriver Day, a time to celebrate one of the simplest cocktails ever made.

Of course, you and your team can make the Screwdriver your own. Top-shelf vodka, the finest and freshest hand-squeezed orange juice (maybe even blood orange juice), any number of garnishes or rims, a touch of sparkling wine or water… The simpler the drink, the easier it can be to riff on it.

Cheers!

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