French Cocktail Culture: More than Champagne
by David Klemt
That’s some interesting stemware…and the cocktail on the right is an interesting color.
The French have contributed more than Champagne, Cognac, Armagnac, Grand Marnier, and Cointreau to global cocktail culture.
There at least a dozen cocktails that originate from France. And, of course, there are even more from one of the most French-influenced cities in the US, New Orleans.
Since Bastille Day is almost upon us I want to share ten cocktail recipes with origin stories we can trace back to France. Now, if celebrating Bastille Day isn’t your thing, you can celebrate National Grand Marnier Day instead.
Basically, if a cocktail below calls for orange liqueur, you and your bar team can use Grand Marnier. But…allow me to nerd out for a moment about orange liqueur and France.
Orange Liqueur vs. Triple Sec vs. Orange Curaçao
As we’re taught early on, all squares are rectangles (and rhombuses). However, not all rectangles (or rhombuses) are squares. Why am I bringing up geometric shapes in an article about cocktails?
Think of orange liqueur as a rectangle or rhombus. All orange curaçaos and triple secs can be considered orange liqueurs, but not all orange liqueurs are triple secs or orange curaçaos, if we want to be pedantic.
Generally speaking, triple sec is French orange liqueur. Cointreau, as an example, is a triple sec. It’s also an orange liqueur, and one can argue it’s an orange curaçao, although it isn’t made with Lahara orange. Grand Marnier is French but is not a triple sec. Why not? Because Grand Marnier is triple sec blended with Cognac. Pedantry strikes again!
Why does this matter? When choosing your orange liqueur, keep in mind that they don’t all taste the same. Their unique flavors will have an impact on a given cocktail. So, if you were to build a Sidecar with Grand Marnier rather than Cointreau, they’d taste noticeably different. This is, in part, due to the fact that the Sidecar is a Cognac recipe, and Grand Marnier is made with Cognac.
Thank you for indulging me there. Feel free to share that knowledge with your guests, but stop if their eyes start glazing over.
Consider featuring any of the cocktail recipes below this weekend. Sunday, July 14, is Bastille Day, or National Grand Marnier Day, if you prefer. Cheers!
French 75
This classic’s original form can be tracked to the 1910s and the famous New York Bar, located in Paris. Eventually, the venue would become Harry’s New York Bar, named for proprietor, bartender, and writer Harry MacElhone.
By the 1920s, the “final form” of the French 75 we all know and love would come into existence. However, people are still tweaking this classic’s build.
For the traditionalists out there, the French 75 is easy to make: one part gin, and a half-part each of lemon juice and simple syrup, topped with three parts sparkling wine. Don’t forget the lemon twist to garnish!
Boulevardier
As was the case with so many others during the modern Cocktail Revival—and the subsequent Negroni craze—the Boulevardier was my go-to cocktail for quite some time. Interestingly, this cocktail supposedly never “took” until the 2000s.
Like the French 75, the Boulevardier can be traced to Harry’s New York Bar and 1920s Paris. However, the credit for this one goes to a magazine publisher, according to Harry himself.
For this recipe, pretend you’re making a Negroni…but swap out the gin for bourbon or rye. Oh, and forget the 1:1:1 Negroni ratio; this isn’t an equal parts situation. Instead, combine one part Campari with one part sweet vermouth, but bump up the whiskey to one-and-one-quarter parts.
Old Pal
The Old Pal is thought to be a spin on the Boulevardier by that cocktail’s creator, Harry MacElhone, at his bar in Paris.
Whereas the Boulevardier is considered by someone a whiskey-based riff on the Negroni, that’s not an equal-parts build. This, however, is.
Stir equal parts rye whiskey, Campari, and dry vermouth in a mixing glass with ice. Then, strain it into a chilled coupe. Some modern recipes call for doubling the rye, so experimentation is in order.
Sidecar
Okay, let’s start a fight: the Sidecar was created at the Ritz Paris, in Paris, in the 1920s. Why should that cause a kerfuffle? Well, the drink could also be a Pat MacGarry creation, invented in London.
Making this even more contentious is that Harry (yes, of Harry’s New York Bar) went from crediting MacGarry to claiming credit himself. Oh, and sources in both Paris and London claim the same story to be true: a guest arrived at their bar on a motorcycle, and the bartender at the time came up with this drink for said guest.
But wait, il y a plus! Living legend Dale DeGroff has stated that he believes the name references a bonus shot. This is the amount of cocktail left over after shaking and straining the drink, and served on the side in a shot glass.
Regardless of the true story, add three-quarters of an ounce each orange liqueur and lemon juice, then double that amount of Cognac. Prep a coupe with a sugar rim, shake the mixture, strain it into the glass, and garnish with an orange twist.
Between the Sheets
Are you getting the impression that we should just credit with Harry MacElhone with the creation of every drink originating from Paris? I won’t blame you if you are, since he’s credited with Between the Sheets as well. Is he actually the creator? Maybe I’ll address that in a future Drink Donnybrook.
To build this cocktail, pretend you’re making a Sidecar. Then, pick up a bottle of rum. This is an equal parts cocktail, calling for three-quarters of a part of Cognac, rum, and orange liqueur, and a quarter-part of lemon juice.
White Lady
This MacElhone creation has an interesting history. As the story goes, he created the original version in London in the late 1910s. He served it in its precursor form, then overhauled the recipe in Paris. At his bar. In the 1920s. Déjà vu, anyone?
And what an overhaul the recipe underwent. The original White Lady was a blend of crème de menthe, triple sec, and lemon juice. However, MacElhone eschewed crème de menthe in Paris, replacing it with gin. Additionally, he added an egg white and a dry shake.
Mimosa
Surely, the simple two-ingredient Mimosa must have a clear origin, right? Well…maybe.
Some say the Mimosa was created at the Ritz Hotel in Paris in the mid-1920s. Others believe it was invented in the 1930s. Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if the drink was first crafted in the 1910s or earlier by someone who simply wanted to toss some sparkling wine into their orange juice.
Ritz bartender Frank Meier may be the drink’s creator. However, people who dispute this point to his 1936 book The Artistry of Mixing Drinks. Recipes with Meier’s initials inside of a diamond next to recipes marked this as his creations. No such symbol appears next to the Mimosa.
If you need this complex recipe, it’s two ounces of chilled orange juice, topped with sparkling wine. I prefer Crémant to Champagne, but do whatever works best. In fact, operators can upsell the bubbles for their signature Mimosas.
Death in the Afternoon
I’m hesitant to include this cocktail, for a couple of reasons. One, I’m not sure it was created in France. There’s reason to believe it was invented as an homage to France, but outside of the country.
Second, Ernest Hemingway is given the credit as its creator. However, Hemingway historians have been dubious of claims involving the author and his relationship to certain drinks and bars.
That said, Hemingway purportedly came up with this drink while spending time in France in the 1920s. Add one-and-a-half parts absinthe to a coupe, then add three times that amount of chilled Champagne until the mixture is “milky” in appearance. Next, I assume, comes a nap.
Yellow
How about a modern classic? Yellow is a signature cocktail at Cravan, owned by restaurateur, bartender, and historian Franck Audoux.
If you’re visiting Paris, the original Cravan location is in the 16th arrondissement of the capital city. However, a second location, the result of a partnership between Audoux and Moët Hennessy, is in the 6th arrondissement. If you’re curious, there are 20 arrondissements in Paris.
Audoux, again, a historian, created the Yellow as an homage to a cocktail said to have been popular in the Côte d’Azur, or French Riviera: gin, Suze and Yellow Chartreuse. To make Audoux’s Yellow, add ice to a shaker, along with equal parts London Dry gin, Suze, Yellow Chartreuse, and lemon juice. Shake, then double strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.
L’Expérience 1
Hey, speaking of modern classics… Back in 2007, Experimental Group opened its first venue in Paris, Experimental Cocktail Club. Seventeen years later, the group has built an empire spanning eleven cities all over the world.
Moreover, Experimental Group operates not just bars but restaurants, clubs, and hotels. That said, while the group has grown, they haven’t forgotten their roots. L’Experience 1 appeared on the menu at their first-ever venue, and it remains their signature cocktail.
To make this modern drink, chill a Martini glass. Add three-quarters of a part each of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and elderflower liqueur, plus one-and-three-quarter parts of premium or super-premium vodka to a cocktail shaker. Before adding ice, add a basil leaf and one hand-crushed blade of lemongrass to the shaker as well. Shake, strain into the prepared glass, and garnish with a lemongrass leaf.
Santé!
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